My condo is on second floor and the wax ring inside the toilet base leaked for a week without me having any knowledge of it. I come home to a ';leak finder'; hired by another unit, to the conclusion that the leak is coming from my unit. Although I was not legally responsible for the bill (the unit that called him was) I paid the bill.
I hired a plumber to fix my issue and then called the condo association (the downstairs unit kept inferring I would be responsible and didn't even call) to which I was told that the association would take care of the drywall, insulation but not any painting. This was a month ago. I spoke with the owner downstairs and asked that she call me when the guy came out from the association and let me know what he says (there was a question about tile damage as well).
I just received a call from them for a bill of $150.00+ for ';painting'; which they had the association guy do while he was out. I am not going to pay for several reasons. Am I wrong here?
Reason 1=I never agreed verbally to pay and am not legally responsible in the association by laws. They are.
Reason 2=If I was going to pay, I would have gotten estimates for the painting, I am not made of money.
Reason 3=I wouldn't have paid anyone to paint a friggin' wall when I can do it myself for free???Am I responsible for painting after condo takes care of drywall after my toilet leaks into downstairs condo?
i don't think you're in the wrong here, but i don't know the laws of owning a condo. you never agreed to anything, and were never given a chan ce to shop around...and this wasn't your problem in the first place! you paid the bill for the leak finder which wasn't your responsibility, and you shouldn't have to pay for anything beyond that! Am I responsible for painting after condo takes care of drywall after my toilet leaks into downstairs condo?
All the questions you ask are based on your assoc docs %26amp; bylaws. But I can tell you of all the 30+ assoc the company I work for in Ohio manage, you would be responsible for the whole repair drywall and all since it was your toilet that caused the problem. You would also be responsible to pay for any damage your leak caused the unit below you. It is not the association's fault that your toilet leaked, it is your own. Your insurance should cover this. I can also tell you if you choose not to pay, the Association can place a lien on your unit for non-payment at which point you will also be responsible to pay the legal fees involved with that too.
If your toilet leaked and damaged the unit below, you are responsible for the damage because you own the plumbing in your unit.
Reason 1 = You are legally liable because it was your plumbing issues that caused the damage.
Reason 2 = You don't have the option of getting estimates when you damage someone else's property.
Reason 3 = The unit owner below you has no obligation to allow you to paint anything. They have the right to have the damage fixed by a contractor of their choice and have you pay the bill or sue you.
Saturday, February 27, 2010
Cleaning painted drywalls?
There are pencil crayon marks on my draw wall that I can't get rid of, any suggestions before I sand it off?Cleaning painted drywalls?
Try the Mr Clean Magic Eraser, they work great.
Try the Mr Clean Magic Eraser, they work great.
Can I use drywall primer on a painted wall.?
I removed paneling from my wall. There was paneling glue on the wall. I scraped the bulk of it off of the wall and what was left I sanded it down flat. Now I want to prime and paint. The wall has been previously painted. I already have a can of drywall primer that was purchased about 1 month ago but was never used. Can I use that primer before I paint or do I need to purchase a different type of primer. I would rather not spend money on more primer if I can use the dry wall primer. Thanks.Can I use drywall primer on a painted wall.?
If all the glue has been removed and you have a clear layer of previous paint and is in good condition after sanding ( implying the dry paint isn't chipping off), then you can paint without priming. Can I use drywall primer on a painted wall.?
Read the directions on the primer can. It will tell you what you can topcoat on it. It may try to sell you its own brand but it will still say what goes on top. All the glue must be removed to get the paint to stick even it you need to get below the first part of the paper.
If the 'drywall primer' is something like Kilz, or Zinser, you can go ahead and use it. If it is a PVA primer, then I'd suggest you go ahead and purchase Kilz for this project.
Have Fun
yes you can use the primer you bought. Just make sure that you mix the primer up first.
If all the glue has been removed and you have a clear layer of previous paint and is in good condition after sanding ( implying the dry paint isn't chipping off), then you can paint without priming. Can I use drywall primer on a painted wall.?
Read the directions on the primer can. It will tell you what you can topcoat on it. It may try to sell you its own brand but it will still say what goes on top. All the glue must be removed to get the paint to stick even it you need to get below the first part of the paper.
If the 'drywall primer' is something like Kilz, or Zinser, you can go ahead and use it. If it is a PVA primer, then I'd suggest you go ahead and purchase Kilz for this project.
Have Fun
yes you can use the primer you bought. Just make sure that you mix the primer up first.
After doing drywall repair. Do I have to primer the entire wall or just the repair area before painting?
If it's a small area then just the area and touch up with 2 coats of matching paint if your not painting the whole wal. I usaully don't even prime I place 2-3 coats of matching paint on if its a small hole or an old speaker/vent hole etc.
If you're gonna paint the whole wall anyway then definitely just the area you fixed with the primer After doing drywall repair. Do I have to primer the entire wall or just the repair area before painting?
Just the repair area should be fine. If you're painting the whole wall, you still shouldn't need primer as long as it has been painted with a similar paint of a similar color, and is clean.After doing drywall repair. Do I have to primer the entire wall or just the repair area before painting?
Make sure you tape and sand the seams by the repair site, so you can just primer the spot and cover it with the same paint.
Just the repair area...unless you're going to paint the entire wall.scene hair
If you're gonna paint the whole wall anyway then definitely just the area you fixed with the primer After doing drywall repair. Do I have to primer the entire wall or just the repair area before painting?
Just the repair area should be fine. If you're painting the whole wall, you still shouldn't need primer as long as it has been painted with a similar paint of a similar color, and is clean.After doing drywall repair. Do I have to primer the entire wall or just the repair area before painting?
Make sure you tape and sand the seams by the repair site, so you can just primer the spot and cover it with the same paint.
Just the repair area...unless you're going to paint the entire wall.
Spilled baby oil on painted surface, drywall, how to clean it off?
TSP. Tri-Sodium Phosphate cleaner. Available at most hardware and paint stores. Eats grease like crazy.Spilled baby oil on painted surface, drywall, how to clean it off?
way to categorize, putting that question in singles and dating.Spilled baby oil on painted surface, drywall, how to clean it off?
lestoil
Why is this question in LOVE AND ROMANCE?
way to categorize, putting that question in singles and dating.Spilled baby oil on painted surface, drywall, how to clean it off?
lestoil
Why is this question in LOVE AND ROMANCE?
Friday, February 26, 2010
Painting a Celing and the Drywall Tape is Coming Off?
You will need to fix that before you paint. Is this a vaulted ceiling? Cracking of ceiling joints is very common in vaults, due to the seasonal expansion/contraction of the framing. The best way I've found to deal with that is to use mesh tape rather than paper. Caulk the joint before you apply tape, and them mud it as usual. After the 3 coats of mud and sanding, vacuum the dust off of the wall, prime and paint. Probably not what you wanted to hear, but it's the best method of fixing this. Hope this helps.Painting a Celing and the Drywall Tape is Coming Off?
If the tape is coming off, it either got wet from a leak or was put on improperly.
Mud the spot to be taped, then lay the tape in the mud. hold the tape down with a knife, and smooth it into place with the other knife
If the tape is coming off, it either got wet from a leak or was put on improperly.
Mud the spot to be taped, then lay the tape in the mud. hold the tape down with a knife, and smooth it into place with the other knife
Do we really need to install cement backing when installing MARBLE tile on PAINTED drywall?
We have drywall in our kitchen that was painted with a smooth semi-gloss paint a good 8 yrs ago. We'd like to install 3';x6'; tumbled marble as a backsplash over the drywall. It's about 1/4'; thick so probably slightly heavier than say, the tiny square glass tiles that come on a 12';x12'; netting. One person at the Home Depot said we could just sand and scrape up the drywall and then apply the thinset and install the marble. Another said we might want to use a cement backing. We aren't really DIYers and would so we don't want to create extra work with the cement backing if it isn't needed. That said, we don't want the drywall to start peeling and the marble tiles to start falling off after a short amount of time.
Please advise. Thank you!Do we really need to install cement backing when installing MARBLE tile on PAINTED drywall?
I would recommend screwing wonder board over the drywall before putting the tile up. This will give you a long lasting application. It will not up your cost a whole lot and you will be much happier in the long run.Do we really need to install cement backing when installing MARBLE tile on PAINTED drywall?
ild install a 1/4' hardyboard board first -the thinset will not last sticking the tiles to the paint
Please advise. Thank you!Do we really need to install cement backing when installing MARBLE tile on PAINTED drywall?
I would recommend screwing wonder board over the drywall before putting the tile up. This will give you a long lasting application. It will not up your cost a whole lot and you will be much happier in the long run.Do we really need to install cement backing when installing MARBLE tile on PAINTED drywall?
ild install a 1/4' hardyboard board first -the thinset will not last sticking the tiles to the paint
Painting stripped drywall?
I peeled wallpaper and often the white layer of the drywall beneath came away with the wallpaper, leaving the brown exposed. Should I just prime it as usual before I paint?Painting stripped drywall?
no use vinegar and hot water and wash it all of soak wait 5min scrape of with a 12'; drywall-mud blade .It will bubble later after its painted when the paint soaks through to the primer. This process sucks but that's why its expensive to have someone else do it. Use a bug sprayer to wet it and it will go quicker the hotter the water the better. wipe as much as you can get off then prime. paint ect.
no use vinegar and hot water and wash it all of soak wait 5min scrape of with a 12'; drywall-mud blade .It will bubble later after its painted when the paint soaks through to the primer. This process sucks but that's why its expensive to have someone else do it. Use a bug sprayer to wet it and it will go quicker the hotter the water the better. wipe as much as you can get off then prime. paint ect.
Will masking tape tear painted drywall?
I'm under contract to purchase my very first house. I saw a picture somewhere (can't remember where) of a room painted dark with white stripes every couple of feet or so. I liked the look, and was wondering if I could use masking tape to create that look in my bathrooms and/or dining room. The rooms were already painted with a flat beige paint by the previous owners, and I was going to put up a dark earthy orange. I know the shade of beige that is up there will match the orange really well. But I'm afraid that masking tape might pull up the beige paint, or possibly even tear the drywall. Does anyone know of a way I can prevent this? Does speed matter here, where as the less time the masking tape is on the wall, the better my chances of taking it off without problems?Will masking tape tear painted drywall?
Time on the wall and heat determine how much mastic from the tape remains. Get fresh blue or green low adhesive masking tape. Press the edges firmly to keep the paint from running under the tape.Remove the tape before the paint has completely dried, this will allow the paint to develop a smooth edge. Pull the tape over the painted surface to keep any stringers from finding a home on the original drywall.scene hair
Time on the wall and heat determine how much mastic from the tape remains. Get fresh blue or green low adhesive masking tape. Press the edges firmly to keep the paint from running under the tape.Remove the tape before the paint has completely dried, this will allow the paint to develop a smooth edge. Pull the tape over the painted surface to keep any stringers from finding a home on the original drywall.
Using glue instead of nailing baseboard to painted drywall?
I'm lazy. I've had luck with glue before, however, I had to brace it overnight. Is their anything that forms a quick adhesion and is strong enough to hold a long bond. Like contact glue or something? Using glue instead of nailing baseboard to painted drywall?
Don't glue.
Nail them.
It will screw up the drywall if you have to remove the baseboard.Using glue instead of nailing baseboard to painted drywall?
use power lock .......
lic. gen. contractor
Don't glue.
Nail them.
It will screw up the drywall if you have to remove the baseboard.Using glue instead of nailing baseboard to painted drywall?
use power lock .......
lic. gen. contractor
Will masking tape tear painted drywall?
I'm under contract to purchase my very first house. I saw a picture somewhere (can't remember where) of a room painted dark with white stripes every couple of feet or so. I liked the look, and was wondering if I could use masking tape to create that look in my bathrooms and/or dining room. The rooms were already painted with a flat beige paint by the previous owners, and I was going to put up a dark earthy orange. I know the shade of beige that is up there will match the orange really well. But I'm afraid that masking tape might pull up the beige paint, or possibly even tear the drywall. Does anyone know of a way I can prevent this? Does speed matter here, where as the less time the masking tape is on the wall, the better my chances of taking it off without problems?Will masking tape tear painted drywall?
use blue painters tape. Also,to keep the paint from bleeding, after you put the tape up the way you want it, paint a light coat of paint over the tape edge, this way when you paint the full strip and pull the tape off you will have clean straight lines (I learned this the hard way)Will masking tape tear painted drywall?
I wouldn't use masking tape as it could damage the wall. There is special tape called Painters tape in the paint department of all stores that sell paint. These days it is blue. Be sure to ask how long to leave the tape on before tearing it away. Too soon and it will fringe off your new paint job. Too long and it becomes a bit difficult to take off and could also damage the new paint.
Masking tape is designed to be very low tack; i.e. it comes off easily without pulling paint or wallpaper away. It certainly wouldn't damage drywall. It wouldn't pull the paint away unless the paint was already flaking off; in which case it would need re-doing anyway.
They make some really good masking tape these days. I wouldn't use the regular tan masking tape. Use the blue and you shouldn't have a problem.
Most paint and hardware stores carry ';Painters Masking Tape';, it is green in color, comes in various widths, and it is easy to remove for up to 36 hours.
If you use the 3m white tape it won't damage the drywall, if you need more adhesion use the blue painters tape, both will work for the design you have in mind.
go to dollaqr tree or any local dollar store and buy the 1 inch masking tape . reason being that it is so cheap that there isnt enough of a quality glure to pull any paint off
YES, it will. Paint/wallpaper/drywall will tear. Speed will have very little or no effect.
Use painter's tape - the blue stuff.
use blue painters tape. Also,to keep the paint from bleeding, after you put the tape up the way you want it, paint a light coat of paint over the tape edge, this way when you paint the full strip and pull the tape off you will have clean straight lines (I learned this the hard way)Will masking tape tear painted drywall?
I wouldn't use masking tape as it could damage the wall. There is special tape called Painters tape in the paint department of all stores that sell paint. These days it is blue. Be sure to ask how long to leave the tape on before tearing it away. Too soon and it will fringe off your new paint job. Too long and it becomes a bit difficult to take off and could also damage the new paint.
Masking tape is designed to be very low tack; i.e. it comes off easily without pulling paint or wallpaper away. It certainly wouldn't damage drywall. It wouldn't pull the paint away unless the paint was already flaking off; in which case it would need re-doing anyway.
They make some really good masking tape these days. I wouldn't use the regular tan masking tape. Use the blue and you shouldn't have a problem.
Most paint and hardware stores carry ';Painters Masking Tape';, it is green in color, comes in various widths, and it is easy to remove for up to 36 hours.
If you use the 3m white tape it won't damage the drywall, if you need more adhesion use the blue painters tape, both will work for the design you have in mind.
go to dollaqr tree or any local dollar store and buy the 1 inch masking tape . reason being that it is so cheap that there isnt enough of a quality glure to pull any paint off
YES, it will. Paint/wallpaper/drywall will tear. Speed will have very little or no effect.
Use painter's tape - the blue stuff.
I'm painting new drywall. First coat was primer specifically for new drywall.?
Then I painted 2 coats of eggshell paint. I can see roller marks and it doesnt look uniform at all..i used good rollers and good paint..i dont know what to do to make it look uniform..;.any suggestionsI'm painting new drywall. First coat was primer specifically for new drywall.?
Go over it again. This time use more paint and don't press so hard on the roller.I'm painting new drywall. First coat was primer specifically for new drywall.?
I think what's happened is that you've used the wrong painting technique. Here's a no-fail technique for both primer and top coat:
1. always work in small areas, no bigger than 3 x 3'
2. make sure your roller is well loaded with paint
3. start your painting strokes vertically taking care to overlap
4. then turn your roller horizontal and cover the same area
5. then finish with vertical strokes again
6. don't rush
When your roller first touches the wall, you are loading the wall with paint that sits on top of the surface; the horizontal strokes actually flatten the drops of paint and the final vertical strokes flatten them even more so that all parts of the wall are evenly coated. I know this sounds like a lot of work, but it works.
Good luck!
That's odd. I only use Benjamin Moore paint. I find that other brands don't cover well at all, and make me frustrated every time. Benjamin Moore is more expensive, but after many botched paint jobs, I've found it's worth the money.
Go over it again. This time use more paint and don't press so hard on the roller.I'm painting new drywall. First coat was primer specifically for new drywall.?
I think what's happened is that you've used the wrong painting technique. Here's a no-fail technique for both primer and top coat:
1. always work in small areas, no bigger than 3 x 3'
2. make sure your roller is well loaded with paint
3. start your painting strokes vertically taking care to overlap
4. then turn your roller horizontal and cover the same area
5. then finish with vertical strokes again
6. don't rush
When your roller first touches the wall, you are loading the wall with paint that sits on top of the surface; the horizontal strokes actually flatten the drops of paint and the final vertical strokes flatten them even more so that all parts of the wall are evenly coated. I know this sounds like a lot of work, but it works.
Good luck!
That's odd. I only use Benjamin Moore paint. I find that other brands don't cover well at all, and make me frustrated every time. Benjamin Moore is more expensive, but after many botched paint jobs, I've found it's worth the money.
Painting job (drywall etc, contractor etc)?
my boyfriend has experience in painting but the problem is he needs a job with benefits (a union job) (he's black) so that is the reason why he says he can't get hired yeah he finds plenty of jobs off the books but he needs benefits... does anyone know of a job or a way to get a job with benefits for him please he' s really good and this is his dream job.....any info would help thanks in advance.Painting job (drywall etc, contractor etc)?
I can't believe what I just read. Your boyfriend claims he can't get a job because he is black? That's crap. Have him go to the local union hall and they will be more than happy to get him in the game. However, the economy is slowing down and building is too. I would also suggest to try a local building material supplier one that specializes in commercial construction and apply there. If he know what he is doing sales people with experience in the field are worth a lot of money.Painting job (drywall etc, contractor etc)?
I work in new construction as a painting contractor and every trade wether it is plumbing, electricians,carpet layers,the owner of the company offers benefits,they would have no employees if they did not offer benefits ,it is part of doing business...like the above post mentioned tell him to go to the union and they will find him a place .
Very few construction jobs have benefits. How about Home Depot or Bechtel? Retail doesn't pay very well, but there may be benefits and opportunities that aren't available in construction work. Bechtel or some of the large commercial construction companies do provide benefits.
I can't believe what I just read. Your boyfriend claims he can't get a job because he is black? That's crap. Have him go to the local union hall and they will be more than happy to get him in the game. However, the economy is slowing down and building is too. I would also suggest to try a local building material supplier one that specializes in commercial construction and apply there. If he know what he is doing sales people with experience in the field are worth a lot of money.Painting job (drywall etc, contractor etc)?
I work in new construction as a painting contractor and every trade wether it is plumbing, electricians,carpet layers,the owner of the company offers benefits,they would have no employees if they did not offer benefits ,it is part of doing business...like the above post mentioned tell him to go to the union and they will find him a place .
Very few construction jobs have benefits. How about Home Depot or Bechtel? Retail doesn't pay very well, but there may be benefits and opportunities that aren't available in construction work. Bechtel or some of the large commercial construction companies do provide benefits.
Painting drywall for a screen
Im going to use a sheet of drywall for a screen and want to ask anyone out there with experience of doing this before which color i should paint it. some say grey some say white. Im not expecting it to look like a $2,000 screen but just good eough to watch football games and races. Painting drywall for a screen
White.
Look at the professional projection screens, they are all white. If you really want to get fancy, make a dark border around it to give the edge a clean look.
White.
Look at the professional projection screens, they are all white. If you really want to get fancy, make a dark border around it to give the edge a clean look.
Painting drywall help!?
I just removed all the wall paper in my hall way and would like to know paint over it....but I have a few questions..
1. the glue is all over the wall... can I paint over this or should I sand it? whats the best way?
2. Do I need some sort of primer on the drywall before I paint?
3. How do I put a splatter-type texture on the wall? do I mix something into the paint? do I put it on before I paint?
thanks everyonePainting drywall help!?
Hi...OK so answer to #1 no you cannot paint over the glue.....go get some fabric softener or wallpaper remover, spray it on the glue spots and srape it off with a scraper from the paint dept at Lowe's.... then you need to get some TSP and clean your walls (also found in the paint dept) then the answer to #2 is yes, you need to prime...then #3 there is a particular roller and paint you can buy for that ';textured'; look...also found in the paint dept....go to your local Lowe's and go to the paint desk and someone there will walk you through your project....it sounds like alot, but it really isn't...good luckPainting drywall help!?
I have used the texture in a spray can for vertical walls. It works pretty good for that. Not so hot for ceilings.
I have never had any luck with textured paints.
You can also get texturing tools like those at ';all-wall.com';
I. I would suggest that you get as much of the glue off as you can. I didn't when I took the wallpaper off of our bathroom wall and it's been a pain ever since. To remove look for a solvent at your local hardware store, follow directions.
2. I suggest using a primer before painting. It helps make it more even. Paint covers better and sticks better too.
3. It depends on how large an area. For small areas you can get texture in spray cans%26gt; They work well for smaller areas. You can a small ';hopper'; sprayer, those work well too.
For sure if you are texturing the wall you will want a primer. Make sure the wall is dry before putting on the primer. And when you put primer on, don't soak the texture too much, it will beome wet and it will be ruined.
remove all or the old paper/glue stuff. use drywall knife and drywall mud to float out bad spots. let dry and sand out smooth.
now, for an area this size you will need to use a spray rig, ( a compressor and a hopper), to spray texture, (texture is a thick syrupy mix of dry wall compound and water. mix it in a 5 gallon bucket. you can adjust the thickness as needed but start with very little water and experiment until it is a thick syrup).
when its right adjust compressor to about 110-120 psi, fill hopper no more than half way, (it will be heavy is you fill it all the way). experiment with nozzle until you get a heavy splatter or ';orange peel'; spray. let it set up about 20 to 30 minutes, then take you mud knife and gently knock down the texture giving it the spaltter drag look you want. that is if you want splatter drag. if not, spray a finer orange peel and let it dry....it's hard to explain but that basicly it. shoot me email if you need more info. GL with it.
Remove the glue get a good flexable scaper and hot water, .or go to paint store for remover. Always prime walls before you do anything, Kilz or C.I.L problem solver, you can get roller covers that will give you your textured walls in many paterns, the paint store will sell you the texture material you will need Spray cans Cost to much foe such a big job as walls, get the stuff you mix yourself, good luck rember to use a drop sheet.
Definitely sand the walls before attempting to paint. Sanding is hard work, so I suggest renting a hand sander from your local rental place. Your hands and shoulders will thank you. Then clean the dust from the walls before you do anything else. Do use a primer; you'll get better paint coverage. Not sure about the splatter texture, but the clerks at the paint store are very knowledgeable.scene hair
1. the glue is all over the wall... can I paint over this or should I sand it? whats the best way?
2. Do I need some sort of primer on the drywall before I paint?
3. How do I put a splatter-type texture on the wall? do I mix something into the paint? do I put it on before I paint?
thanks everyonePainting drywall help!?
Hi...OK so answer to #1 no you cannot paint over the glue.....go get some fabric softener or wallpaper remover, spray it on the glue spots and srape it off with a scraper from the paint dept at Lowe's.... then you need to get some TSP and clean your walls (also found in the paint dept) then the answer to #2 is yes, you need to prime...then #3 there is a particular roller and paint you can buy for that ';textured'; look...also found in the paint dept....go to your local Lowe's and go to the paint desk and someone there will walk you through your project....it sounds like alot, but it really isn't...good luckPainting drywall help!?
I have used the texture in a spray can for vertical walls. It works pretty good for that. Not so hot for ceilings.
I have never had any luck with textured paints.
You can also get texturing tools like those at ';all-wall.com';
I. I would suggest that you get as much of the glue off as you can. I didn't when I took the wallpaper off of our bathroom wall and it's been a pain ever since. To remove look for a solvent at your local hardware store, follow directions.
2. I suggest using a primer before painting. It helps make it more even. Paint covers better and sticks better too.
3. It depends on how large an area. For small areas you can get texture in spray cans%26gt; They work well for smaller areas. You can a small ';hopper'; sprayer, those work well too.
For sure if you are texturing the wall you will want a primer. Make sure the wall is dry before putting on the primer. And when you put primer on, don't soak the texture too much, it will beome wet and it will be ruined.
remove all or the old paper/glue stuff. use drywall knife and drywall mud to float out bad spots. let dry and sand out smooth.
now, for an area this size you will need to use a spray rig, ( a compressor and a hopper), to spray texture, (texture is a thick syrupy mix of dry wall compound and water. mix it in a 5 gallon bucket. you can adjust the thickness as needed but start with very little water and experiment until it is a thick syrup).
when its right adjust compressor to about 110-120 psi, fill hopper no more than half way, (it will be heavy is you fill it all the way). experiment with nozzle until you get a heavy splatter or ';orange peel'; spray. let it set up about 20 to 30 minutes, then take you mud knife and gently knock down the texture giving it the spaltter drag look you want. that is if you want splatter drag. if not, spray a finer orange peel and let it dry....it's hard to explain but that basicly it. shoot me email if you need more info. GL with it.
Remove the glue get a good flexable scaper and hot water, .or go to paint store for remover. Always prime walls before you do anything, Kilz or C.I.L problem solver, you can get roller covers that will give you your textured walls in many paterns, the paint store will sell you the texture material you will need Spray cans Cost to much foe such a big job as walls, get the stuff you mix yourself, good luck rember to use a drop sheet.
Definitely sand the walls before attempting to paint. Sanding is hard work, so I suggest renting a hand sander from your local rental place. Your hands and shoulders will thank you. Then clean the dust from the walls before you do anything else. Do use a primer; you'll get better paint coverage. Not sure about the splatter texture, but the clerks at the paint store are very knowledgeable.
Help! Does anyone know if I can use a no/low VOC flat paint to cover the fumes of a regular drywall primer?? ?
I am pregnant and VERY sensitive to chemicals in general, especially now. We are in the process of building a house and I requested they use only low/no VOC paint %26amp; primer but of course they quoted us a very expensive price. SO trying to cut some costs, someone mentioned that the drywall primer will be on the walls 4-5 weeks before we move (with much ventilation) AND that the no VOC flat paint might seal out the VOC's from the drywall primer. I'm trying to be as healthy AND green as possible these days but we're stretched a little thin with money. PLEASE, any suggestions??Help! Does anyone know if I can use a no/low VOC flat paint to cover the fumes of a regular drywall primer?? ?
Yes, it should encapsulate the old primer and keep the VOC's at bay.Help! Does anyone know if I can use a no/low VOC flat paint to cover the fumes of a regular drywall primer?? ?
You might call the particular company whose paint you plan to use and ask them this question directly. THey should be able to answer.
Also, consider that many new construction materials can outgas. To help you choose carefully and become aware of the dangers, see the following pages on new construction materials and formaldehyde:
http://www.building-your-green-home.com/鈥?/a>
http://www.building-your-green-home.com/鈥?/a>
http://www.building-your-green-home.com/鈥?/a>
Hope this helps.
You'll be okay if it's done that way. The low voc paint will completely seal the primer. Just don't do the painting yourself.
first of all this low VOC paint thing is nothing but a farce. when was the last time that you heard someone had any kind of health problems from water based paint? i will say most likely never. this is just another thing that the tree huggers have discovered and unfortunately people are listening. i have been a painter for 25 years and have never had any problems from paint not even years ago when i used alot of alkyd paints. i can understand that your money may be getting low. it always does by the time the painting is being done but please do yourself a huge favour find the money and buy the best paint that you can and do not get that crap from the big box stores. purchase either benjamin moore or pratt and lambert and if you really want the best buy farrow and ball. they might be more money but it is the best quality you can buy plus you use 1/3 less so it comes out to be about the same. this is your new home that you are going to enjoy for many years. don't go cheap on the paint, if you do you will regret it for a very long time.
Yes, it should encapsulate the old primer and keep the VOC's at bay.Help! Does anyone know if I can use a no/low VOC flat paint to cover the fumes of a regular drywall primer?? ?
You might call the particular company whose paint you plan to use and ask them this question directly. THey should be able to answer.
Also, consider that many new construction materials can outgas. To help you choose carefully and become aware of the dangers, see the following pages on new construction materials and formaldehyde:
http://www.building-your-green-home.com/鈥?/a>
http://www.building-your-green-home.com/鈥?/a>
http://www.building-your-green-home.com/鈥?/a>
Hope this helps.
You'll be okay if it's done that way. The low voc paint will completely seal the primer. Just don't do the painting yourself.
first of all this low VOC paint thing is nothing but a farce. when was the last time that you heard someone had any kind of health problems from water based paint? i will say most likely never. this is just another thing that the tree huggers have discovered and unfortunately people are listening. i have been a painter for 25 years and have never had any problems from paint not even years ago when i used alot of alkyd paints. i can understand that your money may be getting low. it always does by the time the painting is being done but please do yourself a huge favour find the money and buy the best paint that you can and do not get that crap from the big box stores. purchase either benjamin moore or pratt and lambert and if you really want the best buy farrow and ball. they might be more money but it is the best quality you can buy plus you use 1/3 less so it comes out to be about the same. this is your new home that you are going to enjoy for many years. don't go cheap on the paint, if you do you will regret it for a very long time.
Drywall repair and painting/texturing questions...?
Here's the deal...a couple years ago I had my garage insulated with the blown-in type stuff...as a result there were holes in the wall about every 4 feet. I used some mesh tape to cover them and then used joint compound on top of the tape. I plan on using a spray texture to retexture the entire garage to hide the holes. Questions:
1) Do I need to use a primer before spraying on the texture (like over the repaired areas)?
2) After spraying on the texture do I need to use a primer or can I just use a latex paint and go for it?
3) I also plan on spraying the ceiling as some of the ';popcorn'; is coming loose....can I spray over the old stuff?
Keep in mind this IS a garage but I would like it to look decent as I run a small business out of my garage and have people over to look at products every few weeks. Thanks a TON in advance!Drywall repair and painting/texturing questions...?
No offense, but BIG sigh!!!
I get it,,, that texturing HIDES a lot of faults,,, but reconsider texturing anything that isn't currently.
After installing Thousands of sq. ft. of drywall, and applying Thousands of gallons of paint, I think I know of what I speak.
I'll give you my thoughts, with respect, and you decide the effort you wish to engage in.
Are the holes all at a same level? IE: 7 ft off the floor?
Easy way out,,, Decide where your studs are, and use 1 x whatever, pine, screwed into the wall appropriately,,, As molding kinda, then paint to match the wall. That way it won't strictly matter how sloppy a patch job is.
OR,,,, Forget mesh tape. Depending on the size of the holes, patch them with drywall patches and mud, sand, paint.
You do not need primer,,, unless you plan to go from a Dark wall to a lighter color.
Latex satin or semi gloss in a garage is acceptable.
Again, and with no offense,,, The popcorn may not be your fault, but gads it's so 1970's,, even in a garage. Do not waste cash and effort redoing the entire ceiling if you don't have to... Aerosol cans for patching can be found in a decent Home DIY store. BTW,,, Do the ceiling before you do anything else. Remove the vehicles tarp the area and do the patches.
Rev. StevenDrywall repair and painting/texturing questions...?
you have three decent answers, so i won't bore you with mine.
question 1 yes use primer it lets the dry wall soak it in and not your paint less expensive that way, more than likely in my past experience u cant get two paints that are paint on different times to mach up best is to paint the whole room again might seem like alto of work but if u don't u will notice the difference in the long run.
For question 2 i am not for sure on what ur meaning sorry
For question 3 it is best to scrape off the old popcorn it will come off with easy, re prime the ceiling with primer, and be very careful when spraying the Spackle on it is very easy to get it think in one area and thin in another it is hard to get an even amount cover and if u don't get an even amount cover it will have a shadow effect to it. Hope this is helpful.
It would be a good idea to prime your patches with a flat latex,ceiling white is fine.After spraying texture you can use latex paint and go for it.And on the ceiling take a broom and sweep the cobwebs off then where its comming off knock off the loose stuff ,then spray those areas first, let them dry a while ,then do the whole thing
Q1) no the mud or Spackle will last longer if you sand and dust the touch ups.
Q2) You should prime it all so that you do not waste paint and time.
Q3) If you spray over the old it will fall, to look right just spend a day gently scraping the old down and lightly sand the rough spots
and paint the hole thing at the same time.
PS I would scrape and clean and sand be for anything ells.
dont take this the wrong way pal but every can explains what to do prior to performing the work.
answer #1- prime it IF the instructions on the texture say to do it
answer #2- Primer it IF the paint you plan on using says to or the texture instructions say to prime it
answer #3- Spray over it only IF the instructions on the material say you can otherwise prime it...
your asking us questions only YOU can answer with the materials you use on hand
1) Do I need to use a primer before spraying on the texture (like over the repaired areas)?
2) After spraying on the texture do I need to use a primer or can I just use a latex paint and go for it?
3) I also plan on spraying the ceiling as some of the ';popcorn'; is coming loose....can I spray over the old stuff?
Keep in mind this IS a garage but I would like it to look decent as I run a small business out of my garage and have people over to look at products every few weeks. Thanks a TON in advance!Drywall repair and painting/texturing questions...?
No offense, but BIG sigh!!!
I get it,,, that texturing HIDES a lot of faults,,, but reconsider texturing anything that isn't currently.
After installing Thousands of sq. ft. of drywall, and applying Thousands of gallons of paint, I think I know of what I speak.
I'll give you my thoughts, with respect, and you decide the effort you wish to engage in.
Are the holes all at a same level? IE: 7 ft off the floor?
Easy way out,,, Decide where your studs are, and use 1 x whatever, pine, screwed into the wall appropriately,,, As molding kinda, then paint to match the wall. That way it won't strictly matter how sloppy a patch job is.
OR,,,, Forget mesh tape. Depending on the size of the holes, patch them with drywall patches and mud, sand, paint.
You do not need primer,,, unless you plan to go from a Dark wall to a lighter color.
Latex satin or semi gloss in a garage is acceptable.
Again, and with no offense,,, The popcorn may not be your fault, but gads it's so 1970's,, even in a garage. Do not waste cash and effort redoing the entire ceiling if you don't have to... Aerosol cans for patching can be found in a decent Home DIY store. BTW,,, Do the ceiling before you do anything else. Remove the vehicles tarp the area and do the patches.
Rev. StevenDrywall repair and painting/texturing questions...?
you have three decent answers, so i won't bore you with mine.
question 1 yes use primer it lets the dry wall soak it in and not your paint less expensive that way, more than likely in my past experience u cant get two paints that are paint on different times to mach up best is to paint the whole room again might seem like alto of work but if u don't u will notice the difference in the long run.
For question 2 i am not for sure on what ur meaning sorry
For question 3 it is best to scrape off the old popcorn it will come off with easy, re prime the ceiling with primer, and be very careful when spraying the Spackle on it is very easy to get it think in one area and thin in another it is hard to get an even amount cover and if u don't get an even amount cover it will have a shadow effect to it. Hope this is helpful.
It would be a good idea to prime your patches with a flat latex,ceiling white is fine.After spraying texture you can use latex paint and go for it.And on the ceiling take a broom and sweep the cobwebs off then where its comming off knock off the loose stuff ,then spray those areas first, let them dry a while ,then do the whole thing
Q1) no the mud or Spackle will last longer if you sand and dust the touch ups.
Q2) You should prime it all so that you do not waste paint and time.
Q3) If you spray over the old it will fall, to look right just spend a day gently scraping the old down and lightly sand the rough spots
and paint the hole thing at the same time.
PS I would scrape and clean and sand be for anything ells.
dont take this the wrong way pal but every can explains what to do prior to performing the work.
answer #1- prime it IF the instructions on the texture say to do it
answer #2- Primer it IF the paint you plan on using says to or the texture instructions say to prime it
answer #3- Spray over it only IF the instructions on the material say you can otherwise prime it...
your asking us questions only YOU can answer with the materials you use on hand
Do you know any contractors in minden,tx does painting,drywall,house leveling?
search from google search engine. go to :
http://www.google.co.uk/
http://www.google.co.uk/
Wallpaper backer still on unprimed drywall - cant remove. Painting over - what primer do I use?oil or water?
oilWallpaper backer still on unprimed drywall - cant remove. Painting over - what primer do I use?oil or water?
really, you probably don't wanna hear this but you should sand or get a chemical stripper like sodium triphosphate and get as much off as possible for the best finishWallpaper backer still on unprimed drywall - cant remove. Painting over - what primer do I use?oil or water?
Hello LM616...(great question!)
would you believe that in another life this is what i did fer a livin'? %26amp; I know that sometimes it's impossible to remove the wallpaper or backing from drywall without tearing it to pieces.
(if you do then it's even worse...one time we had to use a shellac to repair someone elses big mess after they did that! Whew!! bad memories...)
Okay...Stay away from the water based stuff as the remaining paper backing is going to expand and form bubbles if you don't...not good.
Use a good primer sealer. there was a product i used called ';kilz'; but there are others that are good too.
Sand it real good as it's all about the prep... and remeber, don't sweat the small stuff!
When ur finished we'll all come over and admire your beautiful work!!!
good luck.
by the way...will u pleez pick this as best answer. U R sweet if u do! thin-Q vry mch!
I have removed wallpaper from unprimed drywall many times. In fact, just did some more last week. The backing will come off but it takes patience. You need a bottle that will spray a mist, a bottle with an adjustable nozzle. Anything like an old window cleaner bottle, any spray bottle. Fill the bottle with hot water and set bottle to mist. Spray a small area at a time perhaps a foot by foot section. The idea is to dampen the wallpaper backing without drenching the drywall. It can be done. Then peel of the backing gently. Do not use scraping tools. The word here is gently. If it is still hard to come of mist again. It should be wet but not soaked where water is running down. You can paint over however you can expect bubbles from the backing loosening as you are priming. Some will disappear but others will now have loose spots where it has loosened from the drywall. I wouldn't suggest sanding unless you are good at it either. You are more likely to sand through the drywall paper and create even more problems. How good are you at wallpapering? They now have a white stiff wallpaper that is a wallpaper liner sold at major wallpaper places. Because it is heavy weight, meant to hide wall imperfections, it may be your best solution. Then prime and paint or wallpaper over.
really, you probably don't wanna hear this but you should sand or get a chemical stripper like sodium triphosphate and get as much off as possible for the best finishWallpaper backer still on unprimed drywall - cant remove. Painting over - what primer do I use?oil or water?
Hello LM616...(great question!)
would you believe that in another life this is what i did fer a livin'? %26amp; I know that sometimes it's impossible to remove the wallpaper or backing from drywall without tearing it to pieces.
(if you do then it's even worse...one time we had to use a shellac to repair someone elses big mess after they did that! Whew!! bad memories...)
Okay...Stay away from the water based stuff as the remaining paper backing is going to expand and form bubbles if you don't...not good.
Use a good primer sealer. there was a product i used called ';kilz'; but there are others that are good too.
Sand it real good as it's all about the prep... and remeber, don't sweat the small stuff!
When ur finished we'll all come over and admire your beautiful work!!!
good luck.
by the way...will u pleez pick this as best answer. U R sweet if u do! thin-Q vry mch!
I have removed wallpaper from unprimed drywall many times. In fact, just did some more last week. The backing will come off but it takes patience. You need a bottle that will spray a mist, a bottle with an adjustable nozzle. Anything like an old window cleaner bottle, any spray bottle. Fill the bottle with hot water and set bottle to mist. Spray a small area at a time perhaps a foot by foot section. The idea is to dampen the wallpaper backing without drenching the drywall. It can be done. Then peel of the backing gently. Do not use scraping tools. The word here is gently. If it is still hard to come of mist again. It should be wet but not soaked where water is running down. You can paint over however you can expect bubbles from the backing loosening as you are priming. Some will disappear but others will now have loose spots where it has loosened from the drywall. I wouldn't suggest sanding unless you are good at it either. You are more likely to sand through the drywall paper and create even more problems. How good are you at wallpapering? They now have a white stiff wallpaper that is a wallpaper liner sold at major wallpaper places. Because it is heavy weight, meant to hide wall imperfections, it may be your best solution. Then prime and paint or wallpaper over.
Painting drywall?
hi,
My new apartment has, i think, unpainted dry wall. Its gray stuff with big patches of white in random places. Should i use a primer before painting this stuff? Would a latex primer be ok for this purpose? Thanks.Painting drywall?
Dan;
I'm not exactly sure what you have by the description and not actually seeing it, but I will tell you a sure way to paint it correctly.
Yes, prime the walls with PVA primer, which is a latex based product; you'll be safe with this. Have it tinted with the same colorants you choose for the wall colors paint.
Do not use Behr Brand Paint which is sold at Home Depot. Behr is an expensive and very labor intensive paint, definitely not for the do-it-yourselfer. Most Pro's can't stand it either. Glidden offers an exceptional paint in the Evermore line sold at the depot, if that's where you go . . . If it's Lowe's you shop, use the American-Tradition product line.
If you need any additional help don't hesitate to ask me.
Best regards,
Mike Lonergan
TradesProfessional, Inc.
http://www.tradesprofessional.comPainting drywall?
you have to make sure the drywall mud is sanded and aal dust removed.then use drywall primer then paint have fun.
Do not wash unpainted drywall with water first!! it will make it too wet..and possiblt damaged the paper coating..I agree with a previous posting..DO NOT USE BEHR PAINT..it is not user friendly..it ruins your brushes and tools..and on top of they..they will not honor thier warranties..I had over 400 gallons from doing an apartment complex they would not honor that buckled..I wouldn't use that trash evermore..brand of glidden from home depot either..it has no polymers or solids in it..thin as milk...Actually..wal mart has a paint line called ';color place';..it is provided to them from Sherwin Williams paint company...simply use a flat wall paint in this product line for the first coat...which will seal the bare drywall..and has enough moisture in it without adding some from water...Have the flat paint tinted to 75% of the color of the paint you use to finsih the walls with..never have them do 100% of the colorant on the primer..for the bases may be different, and the primer can actually come out darker than the finish...Sherwin willimas has a promar line of paints that are labelled promar 200...400..700..these are a good paint label tat alot of contractors use..200 being the best..400..the next..and 700 the least, which is still good for apartment grade..The paint in the walmart label ';color place'; is the same as the promar 700..only labeled for Walmart...
New drywall needs to be primed before painting to create a good bond with the paint. The primer will also help keep the drywall compound (gray stuff) from bleeding or showing through the paint.
Purchase a primer for new drywall. This is cheaper than a primer sealer and will do the same job.
By all means use latex as a primer and a paint. Paint with a satin or pearl finish or base. Using eggshell or flat is not recommended as these finishes are not durable.
Paint over latex with latex or oil but not latex over oil.
Yes use a primer before painting and latex would be fine unless you have problems with stains bleeding through. Test first by rolling a wall with latex drywall primer. If stains bleed through then use a product like Kilz or Binz stain blocking primers.
yes
but you need first to washed the wall with soap and water to remove dirt, fungus or other stain like the white patches.Let it dry for a couple of day then use latex primer 2 to 3 coat then the latex top coat paint in whatever color you like.
My new apartment has, i think, unpainted dry wall. Its gray stuff with big patches of white in random places. Should i use a primer before painting this stuff? Would a latex primer be ok for this purpose? Thanks.Painting drywall?
Dan;
I'm not exactly sure what you have by the description and not actually seeing it, but I will tell you a sure way to paint it correctly.
Yes, prime the walls with PVA primer, which is a latex based product; you'll be safe with this. Have it tinted with the same colorants you choose for the wall colors paint.
Do not use Behr Brand Paint which is sold at Home Depot. Behr is an expensive and very labor intensive paint, definitely not for the do-it-yourselfer. Most Pro's can't stand it either. Glidden offers an exceptional paint in the Evermore line sold at the depot, if that's where you go . . . If it's Lowe's you shop, use the American-Tradition product line.
If you need any additional help don't hesitate to ask me.
Best regards,
Mike Lonergan
TradesProfessional, Inc.
http://www.tradesprofessional.comPainting drywall?
you have to make sure the drywall mud is sanded and aal dust removed.then use drywall primer then paint have fun.
Do not wash unpainted drywall with water first!! it will make it too wet..and possiblt damaged the paper coating..I agree with a previous posting..DO NOT USE BEHR PAINT..it is not user friendly..it ruins your brushes and tools..and on top of they..they will not honor thier warranties..I had over 400 gallons from doing an apartment complex they would not honor that buckled..I wouldn't use that trash evermore..brand of glidden from home depot either..it has no polymers or solids in it..thin as milk...Actually..wal mart has a paint line called ';color place';..it is provided to them from Sherwin Williams paint company...simply use a flat wall paint in this product line for the first coat...which will seal the bare drywall..and has enough moisture in it without adding some from water...Have the flat paint tinted to 75% of the color of the paint you use to finsih the walls with..never have them do 100% of the colorant on the primer..for the bases may be different, and the primer can actually come out darker than the finish...Sherwin willimas has a promar line of paints that are labelled promar 200...400..700..these are a good paint label tat alot of contractors use..200 being the best..400..the next..and 700 the least, which is still good for apartment grade..The paint in the walmart label ';color place'; is the same as the promar 700..only labeled for Walmart...
New drywall needs to be primed before painting to create a good bond with the paint. The primer will also help keep the drywall compound (gray stuff) from bleeding or showing through the paint.
Purchase a primer for new drywall. This is cheaper than a primer sealer and will do the same job.
By all means use latex as a primer and a paint. Paint with a satin or pearl finish or base. Using eggshell or flat is not recommended as these finishes are not durable.
Paint over latex with latex or oil but not latex over oil.
Yes use a primer before painting and latex would be fine unless you have problems with stains bleeding through. Test first by rolling a wall with latex drywall primer. If stains bleed through then use a product like Kilz or Binz stain blocking primers.
yes
but you need first to washed the wall with soap and water to remove dirt, fungus or other stain like the white patches.Let it dry for a couple of day then use latex primer 2 to 3 coat then the latex top coat paint in whatever color you like.
Southeast OHIO: Anyone have extra vehicle in yard, trade for drywall, painting, electrical, etc?
On the day I was laid off my wife total'd our Jeep. I have 22 years experience in Painting, Drywall, Carpentry, Plumbing and Electrical. This is not an ad, I am looking to buy, paying with my labor. If you live in Perry, Morgan, Athens, Hocking, Muskingum, or anyother nearby counties, perhaps we can work something out. You buy the materials and I'll do the labor and save you lots of money. A lot of people have spare vehicles sitting around their yard and a lot of people need a lot of work done on their home. I have 22 years experience, a spotless criminal background and great references. Perhaps we can work something out, it would be a win-win situation for us both. Even if you just have a question, please answer this, or better yet, click onto my icon and you can e-mail me. Thank you!Southeast OHIO: Anyone have extra vehicle in yard, trade for drywall, painting, electrical, etc?
You might consider posting this exact same thing on Craigslist.com. This is exactly the sort of ad they would have.scene hair
You might consider posting this exact same thing on Craigslist.com. This is exactly the sort of ad they would have.
New drywall is (still) soaking up too much paint, any clues?
New drywall is soaking up too much paint after contractor ';applied 2 coats of (ivory colour) primer'; prior to us painting. Whatever ';primer'; they used was sprayed on and doesn't smell like kilz primer. It's really eating up our Sherwin-Williams paint and frustrating us. We've resorted to priming again ourselves by hand. :( Any clues why it's soaking up so much? About 1 can for only one coat of ';dovetail';, a gray colour low VOC for a room about 12x12-ish. Maybe they didn't use primer? (Should it take more than 2 coats...) All suggestions/reasons are welcome! THANKS!New drywall is (still) soaking up too much paint, any clues?
Yes undoubtedly it was the primer they used. If the primer you are doing now is not causing that issue keep the receipt and contact them. They may be unaware that their primer is crap. I would insist on them coming back to finish the entire job at their expense of course.
Info on Chinese Drywall -%26gt; http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2009_Chines鈥?/a>New drywall is (still) soaking up too much paint, any clues?
Drywall WILL soak up paint and primer, no matter what brand the primer is. You need not use Kilz or any specific brand of primer, so long as it says ';Drywall Primer and Sealer';. The sealer is the most important part, as new, unprimed drywall will soak up a LOT of primer, as it's supposed to. This seals it and will take less paint than primer to finish 1 coat. What brand of primer is used is unimportant, so long as it seals. This primer is specifically made for new drywall. I am guessing they did not use a sealer\primer. It's not the end of the world, just add more paint or reprime it yourself.
I just checked a gallon can of paint that ia have and it says it covers 400 sq ft of wall surface. A 12 x 12 room has 384 sq ft of wall (not subtracting for windows and doorways), so one gallon would be needed for each coat. I don't know how dark ';dovetail'; is but if it s light gray then you may not need a second coat.
with a sprayer, you are supposed to water down the primer to make sure the sprayer doesnt get clogged. i was told while buying primer for this same thing that some contractors water down the primer way to much to cut costs and make the job appear to be done. it sounds like you just need to add one coat of a good kilz primer and you should be good.
use better paint,,suggestion is benjamin moore auroa! good luck
Probably wasn't a good primer and especially if it was sprayed on. Prime it yourself with Kilz-it. Contractors are hard to trust!
Whoa, sounds like you have that Chinese made drywall that has been recalled. Sounds like trouble to me.
yES, ';Fresh'; drywall will soak up paint like a sponge. You've got your own answer there -- PRIME %26amp; USE A GOOD PRIMER LIKE kilz !!!!! oR IF YOU'VE ALREADY GOT OPENED CANS OF PRIMER TAKE IT BACK %26amp; either have them replace it with KILZ or have them tint your primer to as close a match to your paint color as possible, but justa bit lighter !!!! kilz is the best primer available !!!!!!
If it is chinese drywall it will be printed on it ';Made in China'; -- if so remove what you've put up, take it with you along with any unused sheets %26amp; return it !!! If they try to refuse giving you a refund -- just get louder %26amp; call for a manager !!! Companies dont want you scaring off other customers. State loudly that it's illegal to sell %26amp; you cant believe s reputsble store would sell it !!!!! Grip loudly til you get your money back or credited to your credit-card !!!! ';THE SQUEEKY WHEEL GET THE GREASE'; -- and the REFUND , etc. !!!!!! Do NOT let them talk you into keeping ANY chinese drywall -- it is dangerous to your family esp. to children %26amp; will ruin any chance of resale of your house as sellers MUST disclose ALL known problem with a home %26amp; if you lie %26amp; it's discovered later (through internet searches of say: ';ANSWERS, ETC.'; a judge can award TRIPLE the costs for your hiding a fault !!!!
So, do it right even if you have to tear out CHINESE DRYwALL %26amp; dont let them tell you ';this 'NEW' Chinese drywall is ';FINE'; or ';OK'; -- it is NOT !!!!!!!!!!! No future buyer will accept it -- I wouldn't !!!! Tint your primer, always tint primer !!!, and use TOP QUALITY PRIMER such as KILZ !!!!!
Hope this helps !!!
Yes undoubtedly it was the primer they used. If the primer you are doing now is not causing that issue keep the receipt and contact them. They may be unaware that their primer is crap. I would insist on them coming back to finish the entire job at their expense of course.
Info on Chinese Drywall -%26gt; http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2009_Chines鈥?/a>New drywall is (still) soaking up too much paint, any clues?
Drywall WILL soak up paint and primer, no matter what brand the primer is. You need not use Kilz or any specific brand of primer, so long as it says ';Drywall Primer and Sealer';. The sealer is the most important part, as new, unprimed drywall will soak up a LOT of primer, as it's supposed to. This seals it and will take less paint than primer to finish 1 coat. What brand of primer is used is unimportant, so long as it seals. This primer is specifically made for new drywall. I am guessing they did not use a sealer\primer. It's not the end of the world, just add more paint or reprime it yourself.
I just checked a gallon can of paint that ia have and it says it covers 400 sq ft of wall surface. A 12 x 12 room has 384 sq ft of wall (not subtracting for windows and doorways), so one gallon would be needed for each coat. I don't know how dark ';dovetail'; is but if it s light gray then you may not need a second coat.
with a sprayer, you are supposed to water down the primer to make sure the sprayer doesnt get clogged. i was told while buying primer for this same thing that some contractors water down the primer way to much to cut costs and make the job appear to be done. it sounds like you just need to add one coat of a good kilz primer and you should be good.
use better paint,,suggestion is benjamin moore auroa! good luck
Probably wasn't a good primer and especially if it was sprayed on. Prime it yourself with Kilz-it. Contractors are hard to trust!
Whoa, sounds like you have that Chinese made drywall that has been recalled. Sounds like trouble to me.
yES, ';Fresh'; drywall will soak up paint like a sponge. You've got your own answer there -- PRIME %26amp; USE A GOOD PRIMER LIKE kilz !!!!! oR IF YOU'VE ALREADY GOT OPENED CANS OF PRIMER TAKE IT BACK %26amp; either have them replace it with KILZ or have them tint your primer to as close a match to your paint color as possible, but justa bit lighter !!!! kilz is the best primer available !!!!!!
If it is chinese drywall it will be printed on it ';Made in China'; -- if so remove what you've put up, take it with you along with any unused sheets %26amp; return it !!! If they try to refuse giving you a refund -- just get louder %26amp; call for a manager !!! Companies dont want you scaring off other customers. State loudly that it's illegal to sell %26amp; you cant believe s reputsble store would sell it !!!!! Grip loudly til you get your money back or credited to your credit-card !!!! ';THE SQUEEKY WHEEL GET THE GREASE'; -- and the REFUND , etc. !!!!!! Do NOT let them talk you into keeping ANY chinese drywall -- it is dangerous to your family esp. to children %26amp; will ruin any chance of resale of your house as sellers MUST disclose ALL known problem with a home %26amp; if you lie %26amp; it's discovered later (through internet searches of say: ';ANSWERS, ETC.'; a judge can award TRIPLE the costs for your hiding a fault !!!!
So, do it right even if you have to tear out CHINESE DRYwALL %26amp; dont let them tell you ';this 'NEW' Chinese drywall is ';FINE'; or ';OK'; -- it is NOT !!!!!!!!!!! No future buyer will accept it -- I wouldn't !!!! Tint your primer, always tint primer !!!, and use TOP QUALITY PRIMER such as KILZ !!!!!
Hope this helps !!!
I'm painting on a wall that has drywall patches all over, but the patch spots show through the paint?
We had to patch the walls because of holes and cracks in the wall. This was a month ago maybe, now we are ready to paint the room. We put on 2 coats of primer last weekend and today we tried to paint the room, but the drywall patches show through the paint. The patches, when they are painted over, come out darker than the coat of paint around them. How do we fix this?!!!I'm painting on a wall that has drywall patches all over, but the patch spots show through the paint?
Sounds like you may need to sand it and orime it ago with a very good brand of primerI'm painting on a wall that has drywall patches all over, but the patch spots show through the paint?
Had the same problem with a bath and hall walls...what primer are you using? The only thing that worked for me was to prime the whole wall with Kilz2 for any areas that I patched. The patched areas suck up the paint differently so you need to prime seal the whole wall to prevent flashing or dead spots. Regular primer does not always work. Tough lesson to learn after putting on three coats already.
Did you sand down the drywall patches? After you mudded them?
paper it first with ling paper makes a nice texture as well
Sounds like you may need to sand it and orime it ago with a very good brand of primerI'm painting on a wall that has drywall patches all over, but the patch spots show through the paint?
Had the same problem with a bath and hall walls...what primer are you using? The only thing that worked for me was to prime the whole wall with Kilz2 for any areas that I patched. The patched areas suck up the paint differently so you need to prime seal the whole wall to prevent flashing or dead spots. Regular primer does not always work. Tough lesson to learn after putting on three coats already.
Did you sand down the drywall patches? After you mudded them?
paper it first with ling paper makes a nice texture as well
I have recently patched a hole in my drywall with a kit. Should I paint over it now?
I have patched a hole in my drywall with a kit from Home Depot. It came with a piece of flat metal and a mesh thing to put over it. I spackled over it with a good layer and it has dried, but the mesh/metal part seems to still be noticeable. Should I add another layer of spackle over this or is this normal? Should I just sand what is there and continue to add the primer and paint? Thanks!I have recently patched a hole in my drywall with a kit. Should I paint over it now?
If you've already spackled it once. Put another coat if not two more thin coats. Feathering each one out further until any lump that may have formed is unnoticeable. I typically start with a 4 inch blade to 8 inch blade, finally use a 12 inch blade to get the best results. Waiting between each coat to dry. Then sand it just enough to get a smooth texture. Make sure when sanding on the final layer to blend the edges in with the rest of the wall so you won't notice where the wall leave off and the patch started. Then your ready to paint.I have recently patched a hole in my drywall with a kit. Should I paint over it now?
the metal and the wire mesh should recess below the drywall, then spackled.
until the wire mesh cover it till you have flat even surface. smooth it with
sandpaper. Small area forget the primer, just 3or 4 coats paint
You should put another layer of spackle on as flat as you can and extend the edges at least another 5 or six inches and then when its dry sand with a 10 inch mesh product made to remove excess spackle. Then prime and then paint w/finish enamel.
You should only paint once the patch is even with the rest of the wall. If you can run your hand across the patch and still feel it, you probably need to do more sanding.
The mesh always shows.Next time try drawing a circle around hole with a lid.cut the hole on a bevel.Cut another peice using same lid on a peice of dry wall at a bevel (same angle)will fit hole like a cork.put a screw in as handle and glue the plug in.Next day unscrew the screw and remove top layer of paper that will be sticking out on plug.Spackle over depression and sand lightly then paint.Will never know hole was there.
As for your patch,you'll have to float spackle over and around mesh so doesn't show as a lump.if mesh is hidden,lightly sand and paint.
Hope that made sense.
If you've already spackled it once. Put another coat if not two more thin coats. Feathering each one out further until any lump that may have formed is unnoticeable. I typically start with a 4 inch blade to 8 inch blade, finally use a 12 inch blade to get the best results. Waiting between each coat to dry. Then sand it just enough to get a smooth texture. Make sure when sanding on the final layer to blend the edges in with the rest of the wall so you won't notice where the wall leave off and the patch started. Then your ready to paint.I have recently patched a hole in my drywall with a kit. Should I paint over it now?
the metal and the wire mesh should recess below the drywall, then spackled.
until the wire mesh cover it till you have flat even surface. smooth it with
sandpaper. Small area forget the primer, just 3or 4 coats paint
You should put another layer of spackle on as flat as you can and extend the edges at least another 5 or six inches and then when its dry sand with a 10 inch mesh product made to remove excess spackle. Then prime and then paint w/finish enamel.
You should only paint once the patch is even with the rest of the wall. If you can run your hand across the patch and still feel it, you probably need to do more sanding.
The mesh always shows.Next time try drawing a circle around hole with a lid.cut the hole on a bevel.Cut another peice using same lid on a peice of dry wall at a bevel (same angle)will fit hole like a cork.put a screw in as handle and glue the plug in.Next day unscrew the screw and remove top layer of paper that will be sticking out on plug.Spackle over depression and sand lightly then paint.Will never know hole was there.
As for your patch,you'll have to float spackle over and around mesh so doesn't show as a lump.if mesh is hidden,lightly sand and paint.
Hope that made sense.
Bathroom renovation: how to remove painted-over wall paper glue without damaging the drywall?
Hi, We just bought a condo, and have very, very little money to renovate the bathroom.
All four walls look like they at one time had thick wall paper on them, which was later torn off. Then, someone painted right over the wallpaper glue. The texture is horrible and flaking off all over the place.
My worry is that if I sand it, won't I damage the drywall beneath the glue? What is the technique to adequately remove the painted over glue so that I can paint it fresh?
Thank you for your help!Bathroom renovation: how to remove painted-over wall paper glue without damaging the drywall?
Use fabric softener and water, mixed 3 parts water to 1 part fs. Spray on the walls (a garden sprayer or spray bottle will do the trick), let it sit for a few minutes, spray again and scrape off. For walls, we use a hand scraper. You can find them at Lowe's or Home Depot next to the floor scrapers. This should get the glue off with minimal damage to your drywall.Bathroom renovation: how to remove painted-over wall paper glue without damaging the drywall?
Vinegar should work. Or just go to a hardware store and I am sure they have something you can use.
I had the same problem in my bathroom, I used fabric softener and water. It came right off.
All four walls look like they at one time had thick wall paper on them, which was later torn off. Then, someone painted right over the wallpaper glue. The texture is horrible and flaking off all over the place.
My worry is that if I sand it, won't I damage the drywall beneath the glue? What is the technique to adequately remove the painted over glue so that I can paint it fresh?
Thank you for your help!Bathroom renovation: how to remove painted-over wall paper glue without damaging the drywall?
Use fabric softener and water, mixed 3 parts water to 1 part fs. Spray on the walls (a garden sprayer or spray bottle will do the trick), let it sit for a few minutes, spray again and scrape off. For walls, we use a hand scraper. You can find them at Lowe's or Home Depot next to the floor scrapers. This should get the glue off with minimal damage to your drywall.Bathroom renovation: how to remove painted-over wall paper glue without damaging the drywall?
Vinegar should work. Or just go to a hardware store and I am sure they have something you can use.
I had the same problem in my bathroom, I used fabric softener and water. It came right off.
How do you fix a poor paint job over un-primed drywall?
I am working on a remodeling project that had new drywall installed. A family member offered to do the painting for the project, but did not prime the fresh drywall. The wall now has an uneven looking finish, which is made worse because the paint is a semi-gloss. Basically, it has the problems described with not using a primer on new drywall.
I was wondering what would be the best approach to get a more even finish to the wall? Should I try to just add another coat or two of the paint, or should I try to sand the wall and use 1 to 2 coats of a general primer and then repaint? Would a general paint primer help any at this point or is it too late?
Thanks for any help or recommendations that can be provided.How do you fix a poor paint job over un-primed drywall?
Yes, you could sand the rough areas to smooth them out. And you can use a paint scraper to smooth really stubborn spots.
You can also spackle any areas that are extremely bumpy or dented...then sand these areas, too.
Primer doesn't really smooth a surface...it just makes the color under then primer less likely to bleed through. It also makes paint adhere better. You'll definitely need to prime if you want to cover Semi-Gloss paint.
Once you've prepared your walls, try painting in either a Satin finish or an Eggshell finish. Any imperfections will be less noticeable with these flatter finishes. Semi-gloss draws attention to imperfections...Satin and Eggshell help hide them.
I don't recommend Flat finish. Yes, it hides flaws, but it's very weak and scrapes off very easily. You can't scrub it.
So...basically, fix the flaws, prime, and repaint. This isn't that hard to fix.How do you fix a poor paint job over un-primed drywall?
Unless your relative left lumps on the wall in the paint, there is no need to sand the wall. Just put a coat of primer over the paint to seal it (you will probably need to use general-use primer instead of PVA drywall primer though, now that there is paint on the wall). Then, just put two coats over the primer as normal. I would use an eggshell finish for the walls, though. Gloss and semi-gloss are usually for trim and doors, and will still show defects in the wall more than a more matte paint will.
Is the entire wall painted? Finish it with the same paint used and watch for peeling. Drywall painted without primer basically just consumes more paint. Once the drywall is completely painted, allow 3 to 5 days to cure, depending on humidity. Once cured, seal it with a good sealer like Kilz and then apply the desired finish, 2 coats.
Give the wall a light sanding, then apply a coat of primer. Let it dry, then apply 2 coats of finish. Instead of semi-gloss, which will show every defect in the wall, use satin, or even eggshell. It has much lower sheen, but still cleans well. Hope this helps.
your choice, no sanding just prime one coat and paint or just paint, the wall is uneven because the drywall soaks up paint at a different rate in different places another one or two coats will straighten out the problem
I was wondering what would be the best approach to get a more even finish to the wall? Should I try to just add another coat or two of the paint, or should I try to sand the wall and use 1 to 2 coats of a general primer and then repaint? Would a general paint primer help any at this point or is it too late?
Thanks for any help or recommendations that can be provided.How do you fix a poor paint job over un-primed drywall?
Yes, you could sand the rough areas to smooth them out. And you can use a paint scraper to smooth really stubborn spots.
You can also spackle any areas that are extremely bumpy or dented...then sand these areas, too.
Primer doesn't really smooth a surface...it just makes the color under then primer less likely to bleed through. It also makes paint adhere better. You'll definitely need to prime if you want to cover Semi-Gloss paint.
Once you've prepared your walls, try painting in either a Satin finish or an Eggshell finish. Any imperfections will be less noticeable with these flatter finishes. Semi-gloss draws attention to imperfections...Satin and Eggshell help hide them.
I don't recommend Flat finish. Yes, it hides flaws, but it's very weak and scrapes off very easily. You can't scrub it.
So...basically, fix the flaws, prime, and repaint. This isn't that hard to fix.How do you fix a poor paint job over un-primed drywall?
Unless your relative left lumps on the wall in the paint, there is no need to sand the wall. Just put a coat of primer over the paint to seal it (you will probably need to use general-use primer instead of PVA drywall primer though, now that there is paint on the wall). Then, just put two coats over the primer as normal. I would use an eggshell finish for the walls, though. Gloss and semi-gloss are usually for trim and doors, and will still show defects in the wall more than a more matte paint will.
Is the entire wall painted? Finish it with the same paint used and watch for peeling. Drywall painted without primer basically just consumes more paint. Once the drywall is completely painted, allow 3 to 5 days to cure, depending on humidity. Once cured, seal it with a good sealer like Kilz and then apply the desired finish, 2 coats.
Give the wall a light sanding, then apply a coat of primer. Let it dry, then apply 2 coats of finish. Instead of semi-gloss, which will show every defect in the wall, use satin, or even eggshell. It has much lower sheen, but still cleans well. Hope this helps.
your choice, no sanding just prime one coat and paint or just paint, the wall is uneven because the drywall soaks up paint at a different rate in different places another one or two coats will straighten out the problem
How do I get wall paper off of drywall. The drywall was never painted first. Paper put straight on drywall.?
Hire a wallpaper steamer, most hire companies will have them.How do I get wall paper off of drywall. The drywall was never painted first. Paper put straight on drywall.?
A cheap alternative to wallpaper remover is filling a spray bottle with water %26amp; Downy or some other liquid fabric softener. Water %26amp; vinegar work also. Just score your wallpaper, or peel of as much of the top layer as you can and spray it on. Within a minute or two you should be able to scrape it off.
If the walls weren't 'sized' or 'primed' prior to hanging the paper, it may NOT come off all the way. This has happened to me several times when trying to remove paper. If you are planning on texturing the walls after removing the paper, you can leave some of the stubborn peices on. After you texture, these peices ususally just get hidden. If they do decide to puff up and come off this is when you will see them, when the mud is wet. Then you can remove them. I have even had a whole wall I just textured over the paper and painted and you would never have known it. Good luck!How do I get wall paper off of drywall. The drywall was never painted first. Paper put straight on drywall.?
if the drywall was not painted or primed, you're not going to get the wallpaper off without destroying the drywall. the wallpaper is now part of the drywall. if you can get the vinyl surface off it will help. then prime over the backing. if it looks ok then you can paint it. but if not you will have to skim the wall with joint compound after priming. it's a real mess when people hang paper on drywall without a primer. good luck, you're gonna need it.
as a past house painter in the eighties, we used to soak the walls with hot water and dishwashing detergent, using foam pads on broom handles, called squeagy mops, here in australia,once the paper was soaked through all you needed was a wide paint scraper, it was messy but it didnt matter if the carpet got wet as we used to rip the carpet up and restore the floor boards to there original condition.
if you have a steamer great
if not use a water bottle filled with hot water
spray and use a wall paper remover tool gently
Larry is right.
1/4'; drywall is quicker than skimming
you will need to steam it off. most hardware stores have wall paper steamers for just that purposescene hair
A cheap alternative to wallpaper remover is filling a spray bottle with water %26amp; Downy or some other liquid fabric softener. Water %26amp; vinegar work also. Just score your wallpaper, or peel of as much of the top layer as you can and spray it on. Within a minute or two you should be able to scrape it off.
If the walls weren't 'sized' or 'primed' prior to hanging the paper, it may NOT come off all the way. This has happened to me several times when trying to remove paper. If you are planning on texturing the walls after removing the paper, you can leave some of the stubborn peices on. After you texture, these peices ususally just get hidden. If they do decide to puff up and come off this is when you will see them, when the mud is wet. Then you can remove them. I have even had a whole wall I just textured over the paper and painted and you would never have known it. Good luck!How do I get wall paper off of drywall. The drywall was never painted first. Paper put straight on drywall.?
if the drywall was not painted or primed, you're not going to get the wallpaper off without destroying the drywall. the wallpaper is now part of the drywall. if you can get the vinyl surface off it will help. then prime over the backing. if it looks ok then you can paint it. but if not you will have to skim the wall with joint compound after priming. it's a real mess when people hang paper on drywall without a primer. good luck, you're gonna need it.
as a past house painter in the eighties, we used to soak the walls with hot water and dishwashing detergent, using foam pads on broom handles, called squeagy mops, here in australia,once the paper was soaked through all you needed was a wide paint scraper, it was messy but it didnt matter if the carpet got wet as we used to rip the carpet up and restore the floor boards to there original condition.
if you have a steamer great
if not use a water bottle filled with hot water
spray and use a wall paper remover tool gently
Larry is right.
1/4'; drywall is quicker than skimming
you will need to steam it off. most hardware stores have wall paper steamers for just that purpose
Drywall compound texturing over oil based paint?
Have a room where the prior owners have a badly applied ';smooth'; oil based paint applied. I'd like to get away with not stripping the walls if possible. I plan to use watered down drywall compound with a heavy nap roller to texture over the oil based paint and then paint over that with primer and latex paint.
My question is will this work, and specifically- would it be beneficial to use an oil based primer first, before rolling on the drywall texture? Or alternately is it possible to dilute the drywall compound with the oil based primer instead of water to accomplish the same task?Drywall compound texturing over oil based paint?
just seal the wall with pva sealer and that will do the trick. you can put anything on after that
My question is will this work, and specifically- would it be beneficial to use an oil based primer first, before rolling on the drywall texture? Or alternately is it possible to dilute the drywall compound with the oil based primer instead of water to accomplish the same task?Drywall compound texturing over oil based paint?
just seal the wall with pva sealer and that will do the trick. you can put anything on after that
Painting of walls and ceiling after patching with drywall compound?
I have patched existing wall and ceilings that were previously painted. Some patches are several square inches. I am going to put two coats of paints on the ceiling and on the wall. Do I need to apply a primer coat to the ceiling and walls. Is spot priming okay or should I prime the complete area.Painting of walls and ceiling after patching with drywall compound?
Since the rest of the walls are already painted you can spot prime the patches.Painting of walls and ceiling after patching with drywall compound?
They're right. But if the existing paint is a gloss you should consider priming the whole thing, or at least paint a test area first, to make sure you have good adhesion.
Sand and prime the areas you patched only Good Luck
If you are applying two coats of paint there's no need to prime the entire area,spot priming is ok.One note, if the new color is the same as the existing color,one coat should be fine
If the walls/ceiling haven't been painted for a while then I would prime the whole area. You can also tint the primer w/some of the finish color which should actually save you having to do the 2 coats you mentioned. I like to prime the whole area because priming seals the surface and helps guarantee a more uniform final finish. It also help highlight imperfections that may have been missed that will need to be corrected before that final coat goes on. This is particularly important if you are using a finish coat that has a sheen to it, e.g., satin, eggshell, semi-gloss finish.
Since the rest of the walls are already painted you can spot prime the patches.Painting of walls and ceiling after patching with drywall compound?
They're right. But if the existing paint is a gloss you should consider priming the whole thing, or at least paint a test area first, to make sure you have good adhesion.
Sand and prime the areas you patched only Good Luck
If you are applying two coats of paint there's no need to prime the entire area,spot priming is ok.One note, if the new color is the same as the existing color,one coat should be fine
If the walls/ceiling haven't been painted for a while then I would prime the whole area. You can also tint the primer w/some of the finish color which should actually save you having to do the 2 coats you mentioned. I like to prime the whole area because priming seals the surface and helps guarantee a more uniform final finish. It also help highlight imperfections that may have been missed that will need to be corrected before that final coat goes on. This is particularly important if you are using a finish coat that has a sheen to it, e.g., satin, eggshell, semi-gloss finish.
I hung some new drywall, and noticed a few defects after it was primed / painted. What is the best way to fix?
The defects are a couple of improperly sanded patches of mud over screws.I hung some new drywall, and noticed a few defects after it was primed / painted. What is the best way to fix?
The best way to aleviate this is to skim coat the walls and sand again or use a texture finish.
The best way to aleviate this is to skim coat the walls and sand again or use a texture finish.
My bathroom was painted on top of the drywall w/o the joints being taped, patched &sanded...nor primed?
At this point, how can I prepare the walls to achieve a smooth surface on which to paint a mural?My bathroom was painted on top of the drywall w/o the joints being taped, patched %26amp;sanded...nor primed?
As an Artist/Muralist; among other things; I'm curious about the Paint you'll use for a Mural?
Also after installing thousands of sq. ft. of drywall, and applying thousands of gallons of paint; I'm really curious about WHY the bathroom was NEVER ';Finished'; and how you define DRYWALL, and in what areas of the bath?
Certainly not IN a shower/tub area I hope.
The answers to finish are valid; even over painted/ UNFINISHED drywall. I'd still question those issues I mentioned above.
Without any knowledge of subject matter or your idea for a composition; the wall will still have to be finished to a ';SEAMLESS'; appearance. Priming as a top coat is probably a valid idea, but I suggest using a FOAM roller cover for the smoothest finish possible.
Steven WolfMy bathroom was painted on top of the drywall w/o the joints being taped, patched %26amp;sanded...nor primed?
Lightly scuff the existing painted surface with 100 grit sand paper. Get some tape and joint compound and finish the seems like they should have been in the first place. Prime the entire wall surface and voila!
Go ahead and tape, patch and sand the joints. (If you have a glossy paint you may want to prime those areas first.) Then, prime the entire wall and paint.
you can re tape and bed the corners on top of existing finish. in drywall work, corners are the hardest part, and will require that the tape be done correctly, sanding, another float and more sanding. then possibly another skim coat and light sanding.
once you are satisfied with t%26amp;b work, you can seal it with a product like kilz, or just use a cheap coat of paint. then you can do your mural.
man, i wish i was there i would have it ready in a day or two! GL with it! jk.
You need to mud tape and sand the joints, if you don't the temperature changes will cause whatever is in between the jints to crack.
If you are putting up a mural that will cover the whole wall you do not have to tape and sand. Just fill in the seam's with compound and sand down. Put primer on seams so the mural will not stick permantley to the seam. and than go for it it should be fine. I have been a wall paper hanger and painter for 20 + years. this will work. and a lot less work.
As an Artist/Muralist; among other things; I'm curious about the Paint you'll use for a Mural?
Also after installing thousands of sq. ft. of drywall, and applying thousands of gallons of paint; I'm really curious about WHY the bathroom was NEVER ';Finished'; and how you define DRYWALL, and in what areas of the bath?
Certainly not IN a shower/tub area I hope.
The answers to finish are valid; even over painted/ UNFINISHED drywall. I'd still question those issues I mentioned above.
Without any knowledge of subject matter or your idea for a composition; the wall will still have to be finished to a ';SEAMLESS'; appearance. Priming as a top coat is probably a valid idea, but I suggest using a FOAM roller cover for the smoothest finish possible.
Steven WolfMy bathroom was painted on top of the drywall w/o the joints being taped, patched %26amp;sanded...nor primed?
Lightly scuff the existing painted surface with 100 grit sand paper. Get some tape and joint compound and finish the seems like they should have been in the first place. Prime the entire wall surface and voila!
Go ahead and tape, patch and sand the joints. (If you have a glossy paint you may want to prime those areas first.) Then, prime the entire wall and paint.
you can re tape and bed the corners on top of existing finish. in drywall work, corners are the hardest part, and will require that the tape be done correctly, sanding, another float and more sanding. then possibly another skim coat and light sanding.
once you are satisfied with t%26amp;b work, you can seal it with a product like kilz, or just use a cheap coat of paint. then you can do your mural.
man, i wish i was there i would have it ready in a day or two! GL with it! jk.
You need to mud tape and sand the joints, if you don't the temperature changes will cause whatever is in between the jints to crack.
If you are putting up a mural that will cover the whole wall you do not have to tape and sand. Just fill in the seam's with compound and sand down. Put primer on seams so the mural will not stick permantley to the seam. and than go for it it should be fine. I have been a wall paper hanger and painter for 20 + years. this will work. and a lot less work.
Can I use ceramic tile over drywall (painted) behind my tub?
If you mean a regular tub surround then I d strongly suggest against it. As one poster suggested, water will get behind it and the dry wall will rot.Water will wick through the grout joints.
Average life span of these types done this way is 7 years on a regularly used tub/ shower.
Now if you mean just over the fiberglass surround ( the 18'; above it) then yes you can. Water doesn t get up there as much.
There are ways to water proof this area (lower tub type) and it ll work but for the cost you can use a cement board , properly do it and it ll be cheaper to use cement board..
Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GLCan I use ceramic tile over drywall (painted) behind my tub?
It can be done, but I would like to inform you that it will not stay intact. Over time moisture will get thru to the sheetrock and cause it to deteriorate. My recommendation would be to purchase Hardy cement board and treated drywall screws and remove all sheetrock behind the area where you wish to install tile. Nail up roofing felt, then cement board and glue the tiles to the cement board.
Average life span of these types done this way is 7 years on a regularly used tub/ shower.
Now if you mean just over the fiberglass surround ( the 18'; above it) then yes you can. Water doesn t get up there as much.
There are ways to water proof this area (lower tub type) and it ll work but for the cost you can use a cement board , properly do it and it ll be cheaper to use cement board..
Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GLCan I use ceramic tile over drywall (painted) behind my tub?
It can be done, but I would like to inform you that it will not stay intact. Over time moisture will get thru to the sheetrock and cause it to deteriorate. My recommendation would be to purchase Hardy cement board and treated drywall screws and remove all sheetrock behind the area where you wish to install tile. Nail up roofing felt, then cement board and glue the tiles to the cement board.
Painting over new drywall?
I've been remodeling my basement and I was wondering, how to wait after the final coat of plaster has been put on the drywall before I begin painting? Can I just wait for the grey colour to fade to white? or should I wait longer?Painting over new drywall?
Make sure the sanding is finished and then wait a day or two to start priming the walls.Painting over new drywall?
You have to Wait until it's white and really dry. Then you have to put a sealer on the new dry wall to make paint stick to it. They make a special paint just for this.If you do not your paint sometimes will peel off. Happy painting.
The fade to white is usually the key...........then prime it and paint it........good luckhardware
Make sure the sanding is finished and then wait a day or two to start priming the walls.Painting over new drywall?
You have to Wait until it's white and really dry. Then you have to put a sealer on the new dry wall to make paint stick to it. They make a special paint just for this.If you do not your paint sometimes will peel off. Happy painting.
The fade to white is usually the key...........then prime it and paint it........good luck
What kind of paints would I use for murals, artistic painting on walls... drywall, brick etc?
Use acrylic. Acrylic comes in many colors and can be acquired in various sized containers. You will need more when painting large murals. Acrylic is durable and can be treated to withstand the elements when necessary. You should not expect to achieve the subtle passages that are possible working under ideal circumstances. These surfaces pose many challenges. The texture and absorbency will wear out brushes and soak up more paint. Think of painting planes rather than blending. The eye of the viewer and the distance from the work that a mural is viewed will support the illusion of a blend......the blending will be done in the mind of the viewer as long as the values are appropriate.
http://www.dickblick.com/products/chroma鈥?/a>
http://www.goldenpaints.com/technicaldat鈥?/a>
Oil paint would require a lot of preparation of the surface and would be the most expensive option......the absorbency will wreck havoc on the crucial ratio of oil binder to pigment in oil paints.What kind of paints would I use for murals, artistic painting on walls... drywall, brick etc?
I use house paint to paint murals. I often go to the hardware store (Home Depot, Lowe's, etc.) and buy the discounted or returned paint. I use interior latex for interior murals and exterior house paint for outdoor murals (Sometimes oil for outdoor, but not always). I purchase smaller cans of house paint in vibrant colors already on the shelves to mix new colors. House paint is very durable and WAY cheaper than artists acrylic and/or oil paint. I have painted murals for over 20 years now. If you are painting on an already painted wall - make sure you know if the paint used is oil or not. If it is - use oil paint or you will need to prime before using acrylic or latex (or it will peel off).What kind of paints would I use for murals, artistic painting on walls... drywall, brick etc?
Oil paints would blend best, but you need lots of ventilation if you do interiors. Plus the brushes are hard to clean. You might want to reserve those for exterior work. Acrylics blend all right if you work quickly, and would probably be better for your health and your client's health.
acrylic paint should work
http://www.dickblick.com/products/chroma鈥?/a>
http://www.goldenpaints.com/technicaldat鈥?/a>
Oil paint would require a lot of preparation of the surface and would be the most expensive option......the absorbency will wreck havoc on the crucial ratio of oil binder to pigment in oil paints.What kind of paints would I use for murals, artistic painting on walls... drywall, brick etc?
I use house paint to paint murals. I often go to the hardware store (Home Depot, Lowe's, etc.) and buy the discounted or returned paint. I use interior latex for interior murals and exterior house paint for outdoor murals (Sometimes oil for outdoor, but not always). I purchase smaller cans of house paint in vibrant colors already on the shelves to mix new colors. House paint is very durable and WAY cheaper than artists acrylic and/or oil paint. I have painted murals for over 20 years now. If you are painting on an already painted wall - make sure you know if the paint used is oil or not. If it is - use oil paint or you will need to prime before using acrylic or latex (or it will peel off).What kind of paints would I use for murals, artistic painting on walls... drywall, brick etc?
Oil paints would blend best, but you need lots of ventilation if you do interiors. Plus the brushes are hard to clean. You might want to reserve those for exterior work. Acrylics blend all right if you work quickly, and would probably be better for your health and your client's health.
acrylic paint should work
Electric sander - are they good to use on drywall to remove lot of paint drip lines and pour paint jobs?
The last guy in my house was the worst painter ever. Some paint drip lines go from ceiling to floor and they are all over the place. Sanding them by hand is hard work. Do you recommend using an electric sander? I also have ares where the ';Tape'; is showing through and I'm thinking I can just razor blade the tape lines out and mud over where the seams, I'm descent with mud. Or should I re-tape? What should I be worried about and watching for? Electric sander - are they good to use on drywall to remove lot of paint drip lines and pour paint jobs?
An electric sander is good on paint, but not the paperbacking on unskimmed plasterboard. I'd weigh up putting on a skim plastercoat.
An electric sander is good on paint, but not the paperbacking on unskimmed plasterboard. I'd weigh up putting on a skim plastercoat.
I painted my wall a glossy color. I can now see the places where i used drywall compound on the wall?
i guess the compound wasnt sanded so perfectly. anyways (i did prime the wall) should i just get sandpaper and sand these areas off then repaint the sanded off area?
before paint, i removed the wallpaper and i left some guages and what not on the wall, which is why i had to patch it up with drywall compound.I painted my wall a glossy color. I can now see the places where i used drywall compound on the wall?
If the wall isn't perfect, every defect will show with a gloss paint. I suggest you sand the high spots down; re mud as necessary and then use a wet sponge for the final finish rather than sand paper. Use a flat or eggshell finish; you'll be much happier.I painted my wall a glossy color. I can now see the places where i used drywall compound on the wall?
All you have to do is go over the spots with more compound smooth them out and prime and paint you will be fine
re-mud the imperfections,
2. sand with fine drywall block sander
prime the wall and then paint
before paint, i removed the wallpaper and i left some guages and what not on the wall, which is why i had to patch it up with drywall compound.I painted my wall a glossy color. I can now see the places where i used drywall compound on the wall?
If the wall isn't perfect, every defect will show with a gloss paint. I suggest you sand the high spots down; re mud as necessary and then use a wet sponge for the final finish rather than sand paper. Use a flat or eggshell finish; you'll be much happier.I painted my wall a glossy color. I can now see the places where i used drywall compound on the wall?
All you have to do is go over the spots with more compound smooth them out and prime and paint you will be fine
re-mud the imperfections,
2. sand with fine drywall block sander
prime the wall and then paint
Why do drywall joints show up through paint?
Why is it, that even though you think you done a great job, and all joints look real good after you sand, the joints show up after paint?
Most of the time they are humped and if you look down the wall sideways after paint, you can see and feel every joint. Especially in sunlight. Hallways, long walls and ceilings are especially noticeable. They seem to be humped. Is this just the way drywall is, or are there any tips I can use?Why do drywall joints show up through paint?
this happens a lot, sometimes it is because the joints were not sanded down all the way, so when the texture is applied it will emphasize the joints more, there really isn't anything to do at this point unless you want to re-shoot the texture, if you do that you will kind of have to blend it into the high spots.
also if you have a higher sheen of paint, like semi-gloss or gloss, it will show joints more when the light hits them, but even if you were to repaint with and eg-shell finish i have seen that still show the joints, hope this helped some,
**ok, if you know how to tape and bed and you are doing your first bed normal, second bed larger sand the crap out of it get a straight edge and check your rock to see if you have a bow in your tape and bed, you know the rock has a bevel for the tape and bed so you should not be exceeding the space allowed, if so the problem would have to be your first bed being too thick, unless you are using sheet rock that has been cut where you aren't lining up the bevels. if you check it with the straight edge and you are flat the problem would have to be in the paint, so just make sure the wall is properly primed, good luckWhy do drywall joints show up through paint?
sorry you did not to the drywall correctly You probably used to little of mud and did do right..Takes practice
You can re mud the joints and re sand. If you do get a wide knife and smooth. TRICK in finishing; Get a natural rubber finishing sponge, just as ythe mud starts to dry wipe with the dampened sponge and smooth the mud out. You will have to practice but if you get this correct it will take less sanding
when i do it i tape up the joints and mud them 3 really good times but u have to make sure you put abt 6 inches or more width on it or it wont cover good it takes me 3 days then the fourth day i sand it really good i have not had that problem very much but hte color of the paint plays a big factor in how good it looks bc some colors shows flaws more than others
you need to float the joints out wider- like with a 12'; knife- takes lots of practice. also, the paint you use makes a difference. flat hides a lot, any kind of gloss will show everything.
its not primed trust me just put some primer on before you paint its cuz the paint is obsorbed in to spackle or however u spell it lol
good luck
Most of the time they are humped and if you look down the wall sideways after paint, you can see and feel every joint. Especially in sunlight. Hallways, long walls and ceilings are especially noticeable. They seem to be humped. Is this just the way drywall is, or are there any tips I can use?Why do drywall joints show up through paint?
this happens a lot, sometimes it is because the joints were not sanded down all the way, so when the texture is applied it will emphasize the joints more, there really isn't anything to do at this point unless you want to re-shoot the texture, if you do that you will kind of have to blend it into the high spots.
also if you have a higher sheen of paint, like semi-gloss or gloss, it will show joints more when the light hits them, but even if you were to repaint with and eg-shell finish i have seen that still show the joints, hope this helped some,
**ok, if you know how to tape and bed and you are doing your first bed normal, second bed larger sand the crap out of it get a straight edge and check your rock to see if you have a bow in your tape and bed, you know the rock has a bevel for the tape and bed so you should not be exceeding the space allowed, if so the problem would have to be your first bed being too thick, unless you are using sheet rock that has been cut where you aren't lining up the bevels. if you check it with the straight edge and you are flat the problem would have to be in the paint, so just make sure the wall is properly primed, good luckWhy do drywall joints show up through paint?
sorry you did not to the drywall correctly You probably used to little of mud and did do right..Takes practice
You can re mud the joints and re sand. If you do get a wide knife and smooth. TRICK in finishing; Get a natural rubber finishing sponge, just as ythe mud starts to dry wipe with the dampened sponge and smooth the mud out. You will have to practice but if you get this correct it will take less sanding
when i do it i tape up the joints and mud them 3 really good times but u have to make sure you put abt 6 inches or more width on it or it wont cover good it takes me 3 days then the fourth day i sand it really good i have not had that problem very much but hte color of the paint plays a big factor in how good it looks bc some colors shows flaws more than others
you need to float the joints out wider- like with a 12'; knife- takes lots of practice. also, the paint you use makes a difference. flat hides a lot, any kind of gloss will show everything.
its not primed trust me just put some primer on before you paint its cuz the paint is obsorbed in to spackle or however u spell it lol
good luck
Painting tips. How do I repair metal corners on older drywall construction, or should I just give up and paper?
Took the paper off the entry space. There are lots of dings and holes which I have filled with Poly fix smooth surface filler and sanded to a smooth finish. However, I am having a problem covering the damaged parts of the three untrimmed metal corners. How do I do this? Willing senior lady perfectionist with next to no knowledge, little money and lots of time would really appreciate your help, thank you.Painting tips. How do I repair metal corners on older drywall construction, or should I just give up and paper?
Here are a few links you might want to check out.
http://aconstructedlife.blogspot.com/200鈥?/a>
http://www.pshomehelp.com/finishing-dryw鈥?/a>
http://www.diylife.com/2008/06/19/perpet鈥?/a>
http://www.ehow.com/how_4145_apply-joint鈥?/a>
If you have a home Depot, Lowes or other home improvement store nearby, call %26amp; see if they offer how-to's in drywall/sheetrock finishing. They offer mini how-to classes on a lot of topics, but not sure about sheetrock/drywall.
It's really not that hard...start with a 6'; knife, progress to an 8';, then 10'; %26amp; final out with a 12'; if necessary...feather the edge %26amp; you'll be ready to prime...I know, it's easy to talk about, but harder to put in practice.
Give your library a call...they may have a how-to book.
Good luck...Painting tips. How do I repair metal corners on older drywall construction, or should I just give up and paper?
If there's a dented areas in these metal corners, fill them in with your filler. If there's a high point, tap it in with little taps of your hammer. Drywall mud (or your filler) should cover everything except the very most exposed tip of the corner.
Cut out the old damaged part and replace it unless you can flatten it out with a hammer. Replacing metal corners is really no big deal.
try to add some spackle around the area that is damaged then feather in the part that is damged the best way that you could
Here are a few links you might want to check out.
http://aconstructedlife.blogspot.com/200鈥?/a>
http://www.pshomehelp.com/finishing-dryw鈥?/a>
http://www.diylife.com/2008/06/19/perpet鈥?/a>
http://www.ehow.com/how_4145_apply-joint鈥?/a>
If you have a home Depot, Lowes or other home improvement store nearby, call %26amp; see if they offer how-to's in drywall/sheetrock finishing. They offer mini how-to classes on a lot of topics, but not sure about sheetrock/drywall.
It's really not that hard...start with a 6'; knife, progress to an 8';, then 10'; %26amp; final out with a 12'; if necessary...feather the edge %26amp; you'll be ready to prime...I know, it's easy to talk about, but harder to put in practice.
Give your library a call...they may have a how-to book.
Good luck...Painting tips. How do I repair metal corners on older drywall construction, or should I just give up and paper?
If there's a dented areas in these metal corners, fill them in with your filler. If there's a high point, tap it in with little taps of your hammer. Drywall mud (or your filler) should cover everything except the very most exposed tip of the corner.
Cut out the old damaged part and replace it unless you can flatten it out with a hammer. Replacing metal corners is really no big deal.
try to add some spackle around the area that is damaged then feather in the part that is damged the best way that you could
Wet Drywall-Replace All or Patch & Paint?
The roof in my apartment recently sprung a leak, resulting
in stained and dripping areas on the ceiling around the fireplace and also wet %26amp; weeping areas on the walls around the fireplace My landlord says the ceiling and walls don't need to have the drywall replaced just wait till it drys then patched and repainted. At what point do i say repairing just won't cut it.
The ceiling and wall have gotten wet before and is still dripping/
weeping after 3 days.Wet Drywall-Replace All or Patch %26amp; Paint?
How much say do you really have? That is always a problem with rentals.
If it is still leaking, either the leak is not fixed and it is still raining, or there is a ton of water held in the ceiling and walls. Personally, I would put a small hole in both to see how much comes out.
Drywall does not respond well to being soaked. Plaster does better, but it doesn't like it either.
First, the leak needs to be fixed. Then the damage needs to dry. Then it is possible to see how strong the remaining drywall is. If it is disintegrating, it needs to be replaced, not patched.
There is also a possibility of mold forming. Some types of mold poison the air. This is not urban legend, you can research it on the Internet. Not all mold is toxic, but all mold is bad, inside a house. If anyone has lung issues, it is very bad.
Since this is still weeping after 3 days, it was/is a major problem. That means it needs more than chewing gum and bailing wire to fix. Based on that statement, I would open up the wall and ceiling to let it dry out. I would put in dehumidifiers to speed the process.
Any insulation that you remove must be thrown away, not reused. Also, insulation holds water, like a sponge, but not as bad. Any that is even wet really should be replaced as it's insulation value is lowered.
The dehumidifier is not simply because I'm in a hurry. The longer it takes to dry, the more mold is likely. After it is 110% dry, I would replace the drywall that I removed.
Most landlords want to do the minimum that they have to. Some want to do even less than that.
Any stains must be sealed with a special primer or coating made specifically to seal stains. If you don't, it will bleed through. Matching the texture, if any is extremely difficult. Matching the paint might be possible, or not. It depends on many factors, such as the age of the paint and how well they mixed it when it was tinted.
Since it is around a fireplace, I hope they fixed it correctly. It is probably more than simply putting tar into a crack. Many brick chimneys are built with inadequate water diversion at the roof.
A quick fix is tar. A correct fix can mean adding some wood to create a water flow path that directed away from the chimney, not toward it. Urethane based calk is also much better than tar, but it costs more and fewer people know about it.Wet Drywall-Replace All or Patch %26amp; Paint?
it will flake and be soft to the touch after about a week if it needs replacing. most wall board will dry but it takes a LONG time and often will no longer be good and stable...in other words easy to break and crumble if the outside cardboard will not dry. unfortunately - many landlords take the easy way out and patch and paint everything...substantial or not. watch it for mold 1st and foremost. if moldy - spray it will a mix of water and bleach to stop the mold then see if it dries solid.
Wet drywall will never dry properly. The paper holding the board together is probably bad already.
1. Make the landlord repair the leak
2. Replace walls and ceiling with paperless drywall (new product and is 100% mold resistant)
3. Make sure you document everything! Have everything notarized.
If you land lord is too cheap or too lazy move out. If you love this place get a lawyer. There are laws protecting tenants from slum lords.
well lanlords are notorius for not wanting to fix a damn thing. take pictures, video if you have it, document it. at some point it may come in handy.
The next problem you will face is mildew. this can be a health risk to you. i would tell em fix it, fix it now, or you take them to court. usually a call the local building inspectors office will suffice, if in fact you can get him out there. they will force him to fix it, and the leaking roof too. course, where you live...i dont know how they are about such things, they may side with landlords at all costs, since they are usually bribing them.
Now is when you say something. First, he has to address the leak. With the drywall being wet, you are subject to mold, which can make people sick. Tell him he has to replace it, not just cover it up or you will report it or take it as a lease breaker and you will move. Any landlord knowingly putting his tentants in harms way with health code violations is someone you should consider getting away from. I would also take pictures now to have the ammunition when you confront him.
Wet and walls together equals MOLD and dangerous mold. I would give notice to your landlord and get the heck out of dodge while your health is still good. You can get a new apartment, but once you get infested with black mold...well...you'll just never be the same.
Check out this website:
http://www.toxic-black-mold-info.com/mol鈥?/a>
Find another apt , your landlord is an idiot . you're looking at major mold damage as well as it's never going to look or be right unless it is replaced .This can be a major health issue .
I'd patch and paint--after it's all dry, pull out anything that comes out readily. Then you can patch any large holes with a piece of drywall, or you can use the handy mesh backing and use regular plaster...both will work fine, and if it's finished well, you'll never know the fiference. If it's still dripping, though, the leak is probably not fixed...different problem
its not your house let him worry about it. If he nickles and dimes it and ends up paying an arm and leg to fix it its not your problem.hardware
in stained and dripping areas on the ceiling around the fireplace and also wet %26amp; weeping areas on the walls around the fireplace My landlord says the ceiling and walls don't need to have the drywall replaced just wait till it drys then patched and repainted. At what point do i say repairing just won't cut it.
The ceiling and wall have gotten wet before and is still dripping/
weeping after 3 days.Wet Drywall-Replace All or Patch %26amp; Paint?
How much say do you really have? That is always a problem with rentals.
If it is still leaking, either the leak is not fixed and it is still raining, or there is a ton of water held in the ceiling and walls. Personally, I would put a small hole in both to see how much comes out.
Drywall does not respond well to being soaked. Plaster does better, but it doesn't like it either.
First, the leak needs to be fixed. Then the damage needs to dry. Then it is possible to see how strong the remaining drywall is. If it is disintegrating, it needs to be replaced, not patched.
There is also a possibility of mold forming. Some types of mold poison the air. This is not urban legend, you can research it on the Internet. Not all mold is toxic, but all mold is bad, inside a house. If anyone has lung issues, it is very bad.
Since this is still weeping after 3 days, it was/is a major problem. That means it needs more than chewing gum and bailing wire to fix. Based on that statement, I would open up the wall and ceiling to let it dry out. I would put in dehumidifiers to speed the process.
Any insulation that you remove must be thrown away, not reused. Also, insulation holds water, like a sponge, but not as bad. Any that is even wet really should be replaced as it's insulation value is lowered.
The dehumidifier is not simply because I'm in a hurry. The longer it takes to dry, the more mold is likely. After it is 110% dry, I would replace the drywall that I removed.
Most landlords want to do the minimum that they have to. Some want to do even less than that.
Any stains must be sealed with a special primer or coating made specifically to seal stains. If you don't, it will bleed through. Matching the texture, if any is extremely difficult. Matching the paint might be possible, or not. It depends on many factors, such as the age of the paint and how well they mixed it when it was tinted.
Since it is around a fireplace, I hope they fixed it correctly. It is probably more than simply putting tar into a crack. Many brick chimneys are built with inadequate water diversion at the roof.
A quick fix is tar. A correct fix can mean adding some wood to create a water flow path that directed away from the chimney, not toward it. Urethane based calk is also much better than tar, but it costs more and fewer people know about it.Wet Drywall-Replace All or Patch %26amp; Paint?
it will flake and be soft to the touch after about a week if it needs replacing. most wall board will dry but it takes a LONG time and often will no longer be good and stable...in other words easy to break and crumble if the outside cardboard will not dry. unfortunately - many landlords take the easy way out and patch and paint everything...substantial or not. watch it for mold 1st and foremost. if moldy - spray it will a mix of water and bleach to stop the mold then see if it dries solid.
Wet drywall will never dry properly. The paper holding the board together is probably bad already.
1. Make the landlord repair the leak
2. Replace walls and ceiling with paperless drywall (new product and is 100% mold resistant)
3. Make sure you document everything! Have everything notarized.
If you land lord is too cheap or too lazy move out. If you love this place get a lawyer. There are laws protecting tenants from slum lords.
well lanlords are notorius for not wanting to fix a damn thing. take pictures, video if you have it, document it. at some point it may come in handy.
The next problem you will face is mildew. this can be a health risk to you. i would tell em fix it, fix it now, or you take them to court. usually a call the local building inspectors office will suffice, if in fact you can get him out there. they will force him to fix it, and the leaking roof too. course, where you live...i dont know how they are about such things, they may side with landlords at all costs, since they are usually bribing them.
Now is when you say something. First, he has to address the leak. With the drywall being wet, you are subject to mold, which can make people sick. Tell him he has to replace it, not just cover it up or you will report it or take it as a lease breaker and you will move. Any landlord knowingly putting his tentants in harms way with health code violations is someone you should consider getting away from. I would also take pictures now to have the ammunition when you confront him.
Wet and walls together equals MOLD and dangerous mold. I would give notice to your landlord and get the heck out of dodge while your health is still good. You can get a new apartment, but once you get infested with black mold...well...you'll just never be the same.
Check out this website:
http://www.toxic-black-mold-info.com/mol鈥?/a>
Find another apt , your landlord is an idiot . you're looking at major mold damage as well as it's never going to look or be right unless it is replaced .This can be a major health issue .
I'd patch and paint--after it's all dry, pull out anything that comes out readily. Then you can patch any large holes with a piece of drywall, or you can use the handy mesh backing and use regular plaster...both will work fine, and if it's finished well, you'll never know the fiference. If it's still dripping, though, the leak is probably not fixed...different problem
its not your house let him worry about it. If he nickles and dimes it and ends up paying an arm and leg to fix it its not your problem.
Have removed old wallpaper down to the drywall. I want a painted surface. What is my next step?
If it were me, I would texture the wall before painting. The texture will also seal the plasterboard (drywall).
Sounds like you have a good start on your project, ,keep up the good work!Have removed old wallpaper down to the drywall. I want a painted surface. What is my next step?
You should sand and prime it. Once primed you'll be able to see and flaws and divots. Now use joint compound to fill all the spots that need filling. After that, sand and prime it again. Once the walls looks good enough for you, do your thing and paint.
The reason I chose to use joint compound is, it's not expensive and sands easily.Have removed old wallpaper down to the drywall. I want a painted surface. What is my next step?
Use a cleaner to remove any glue residue from the wall, then let it dry. Make any repairs to the wall at this time, and sand any spots that need it. Apply a quality primer/sealer to seal any stains and glue that didn't come off. Make sure your primer is compatable with your color coat. Now your ready for the color coat.
Spackle over any holes, dents, imprefections, then sand, wipe down with TSP, let dry, prime, then paint.
Make sure you wash off all the old adhesive, fill in any cracks and holes, sand down the filler and then go over the wall with a wide bladed scraper to get off the tiny bits of debris that you didn't notice before (do this in a strong light.)
If you are down to the bare plaster, dilute your paint by 20 percent and use this for the first coat to give a good key for the subsequent coats (at least two) at the normal strength.
wash the wall...prime it, then paint it
Use a primer first. Dont ever paint over exposed drywall.
Make sure none of the sticky residue from the wallpaper is left behind. Sand any rough spots and fill any holes. Prime the entire wall. Apply a coat of paint after the primer is dry.
If the wallpaper was put on drywall, chances are you took a bunch of the wall off with it. I hate it when people do that. If you did that, you will need to put some orange peel spray on the wall to cover your newly made flaws. Then prime it, then paint it. PS if you don't use primer first, the wallwill suck and suck and suck paint and won't look right. Good luck.
Get some freakin paint
prime the wall. otherwise the paint will just be absorbed into it and you will use too much paint.
Make sure all of the wallpaper is removed and the backing. Fill any blemishes with texture or drywall compound. Prime the entire wall, then paint.
Sounds like you have a good start on your project, ,keep up the good work!Have removed old wallpaper down to the drywall. I want a painted surface. What is my next step?
You should sand and prime it. Once primed you'll be able to see and flaws and divots. Now use joint compound to fill all the spots that need filling. After that, sand and prime it again. Once the walls looks good enough for you, do your thing and paint.
The reason I chose to use joint compound is, it's not expensive and sands easily.Have removed old wallpaper down to the drywall. I want a painted surface. What is my next step?
Use a cleaner to remove any glue residue from the wall, then let it dry. Make any repairs to the wall at this time, and sand any spots that need it. Apply a quality primer/sealer to seal any stains and glue that didn't come off. Make sure your primer is compatable with your color coat. Now your ready for the color coat.
Spackle over any holes, dents, imprefections, then sand, wipe down with TSP, let dry, prime, then paint.
Make sure you wash off all the old adhesive, fill in any cracks and holes, sand down the filler and then go over the wall with a wide bladed scraper to get off the tiny bits of debris that you didn't notice before (do this in a strong light.)
If you are down to the bare plaster, dilute your paint by 20 percent and use this for the first coat to give a good key for the subsequent coats (at least two) at the normal strength.
wash the wall...prime it, then paint it
Use a primer first. Dont ever paint over exposed drywall.
Make sure none of the sticky residue from the wallpaper is left behind. Sand any rough spots and fill any holes. Prime the entire wall. Apply a coat of paint after the primer is dry.
If the wallpaper was put on drywall, chances are you took a bunch of the wall off with it. I hate it when people do that. If you did that, you will need to put some orange peel spray on the wall to cover your newly made flaws. Then prime it, then paint it. PS if you don't use primer first, the wallwill suck and suck and suck paint and won't look right. Good luck.
Get some freakin paint
prime the wall. otherwise the paint will just be absorbed into it and you will use too much paint.
Make sure all of the wallpaper is removed and the backing. Fill any blemishes with texture or drywall compound. Prime the entire wall, then paint.
Will drywall eventually sag if it is not painted?
Recently had a house built...and the garage is insulated and drywalled, but not painted. I was told that if I did not put at least one coat of paint of the drywall, that eventually it would warp and sag. Is this true?Will drywall eventually sag if it is not painted?
In the garage, yes. (umless you live in Arizona) Paint it. If it is in a dry room, you will not have to worry. It will just look ugly.Will drywall eventually sag if it is not painted?
Primer-sealer is a must to apply (especially in an unstable and variable moisture environment like a garage) to help resist the moisture from affecting the integrity of the drywall, and letting the gypsum underneath the paper powder,disintegrate or break down.
Go ahead and do it. It looks better too!
Moisture can get to it quickly. Paint it.
No as long as it's screwed in or nailed properly with appropriate fasteners. and there is no heavy moisture.
very true, my father put up drywall in the walls ofa room he uilt,and it sagged after 3 days because he didnt put paint on it,he neded up having to rpelace it
it would be more afected by humidity if it is left bare, etc. gloss paint would be more resistant but shows more imperfectoins than a flat paint but then again it is a garage
3 days, no...unless you live under water...i have had unpaintd drywall on my ceiling for a few months now...no problems..
In the garage, yes. (umless you live in Arizona) Paint it. If it is in a dry room, you will not have to worry. It will just look ugly.Will drywall eventually sag if it is not painted?
Primer-sealer is a must to apply (especially in an unstable and variable moisture environment like a garage) to help resist the moisture from affecting the integrity of the drywall, and letting the gypsum underneath the paper powder,disintegrate or break down.
Go ahead and do it. It looks better too!
Moisture can get to it quickly. Paint it.
No as long as it's screwed in or nailed properly with appropriate fasteners. and there is no heavy moisture.
very true, my father put up drywall in the walls ofa room he uilt,and it sagged after 3 days because he didnt put paint on it,he neded up having to rpelace it
it would be more afected by humidity if it is left bare, etc. gloss paint would be more resistant but shows more imperfectoins than a flat paint but then again it is a garage
3 days, no...unless you live under water...i have had unpaintd drywall on my ceiling for a few months now...no problems..
Painting repaired drywall?
We've had to repair quite a few holes and dents in our drywall. With the big holes we put a new piece of drywall, put joint compound over the spot, sanded it, primed it and painted it. Where there were little dents we did the same thing just no new piece of drywall. The thing is, the final coat is a semi-gloss but where the compound is, the paint has turned into a flat finish. We don't prefer either finish but we would like it all the same. Does anyone know why this happens? If so, how can we fix it without having to put compound on the entire wall.Painting repaired drywall?
You must make the wall one uniform surface when using higher gloss paints. You can either prime with a high quality prime or skim coat the wall with drywall mud. This is done by simply watering down some joint compound (I prefer topping) to a milkshake like consistency. Roll it over the entire surface of the wall with a 1/2 nap paint roller. And wipe it back off to leave just a film over the surface. Sand this lightly before painting.Painting repaired drywall?
This happened to me You needed a primer first, maybe you can sand the wall again and primer it and then paint it again . A primer can be a flat wall paint. I did this and my wall is fine
Did you let the primer dry out long enough?
You must make the wall one uniform surface when using higher gloss paints. You can either prime with a high quality prime or skim coat the wall with drywall mud. This is done by simply watering down some joint compound (I prefer topping) to a milkshake like consistency. Roll it over the entire surface of the wall with a 1/2 nap paint roller. And wipe it back off to leave just a film over the surface. Sand this lightly before painting.Painting repaired drywall?
This happened to me You needed a primer first, maybe you can sand the wall again and primer it and then paint it again . A primer can be a flat wall paint. I did this and my wall is fine
Did you let the primer dry out long enough?
I now see seams in my drywall after i painted - what can i do? didn't see them when primer was on!?
I hung, taped, sanded, primered, and painted my drywall - it looked good and felt smooth when i had the primer on, but after I painted it you can see many of the seams and spots - can I go back over it with compound and sand it down, then primer again and repaint? Does the paint type make a difference?I now see seams in my drywall after i painted - what can i do? didn't see them when primer was on!?
You can fill them now you will just need to re-prime and paint them when you are done.
Yoda outI now see seams in my drywall after i painted - what can i do? didn't see them when primer was on!?
sorry to bring bad new but there is a solution. Re-sand the area. Get out your dry mud. Start with a six inch drywall knife blade and apply a thin coat of mud. Let dry several hours. Lightly sand. Take a eight inch knife and apply another thin coat of my. Let dry again. Take a twelve inch knife and apply another thin coat of mud and let dry and cure. Lightly sand between coats of mud. On the last coat when sanding lightly sand until all ridges disappear then repaint. This technique is called feathering out. Normally you would only apply the intital coat of drywall mud with a narrow blad followed by a second layer of mud with a wider blade. Since you have already painted over the surface you have a little extra work to do. As the very last step you can take a moist, not wet, sponge and clean up the edges if the sanding doesn't do it. Good luck!
Bummer. I would think that is what you have to do. I don't think the paint type makes much of a difference. If I were you, I'd call a sherwin-williams and ask their opinion. They are really knowledgable about how the paint makes a difference, etc. Good Luck.
Glossy paint will show more defects than flat. That is why most builders use dead flat paint on ceilings and walls. Primer is always flat not glossy so that is probably why you didn't notice the defects. Lighting makes a difference also. If you have sunlight coming from a different angle you may notice things that were not apparent under artificial light.
Yes you can go over it and sand again.
A lot of good, applicable advice in the above posts. the one thing lacking is how to check for this before painting.
get a very bright light, many use a used, 4', flourscent fixture and stand it one one end, leaning against the wall u r working one. as it shines across the surface of the wall, it will show low areas and u can mark them w/ a light pencil mark round them. Do not leave the light there while working or it may fall and break the bulbs (best done w/o the bulb cover, for the quality of light u need.
Many use halogen work lights that are on a stand or even a very powerful flashlight, though most of them will shine too much light in small area and not enough in others and it needs to be on a stand.
In other words, any stable, wide spread, very bright light will work.
I never call it a finished job, without this step.
It sounds like u've got the rest of it down pat. The paint does make a difference and the glossier the more it will show shallow areas. However, u want a bit of a gloss to make it more cleanable than flat. An eggshell finish is a great compromise. Gives a flat covering ability and yet is cleanable.
Sounds like an impressive do it yourself project, congrats and good luck
Paint will make a Little difference but not too much. You can fix the seams by using a wider drywall knife (trowel) and feathering it out. After you apply more compound make sure you sand it well before you paint.
Another way to get the seams to look better is to use some kind of texture after you complete your joints. Texture hides a world of hurt.
You can fill them now you will just need to re-prime and paint them when you are done.
Yoda outI now see seams in my drywall after i painted - what can i do? didn't see them when primer was on!?
sorry to bring bad new but there is a solution. Re-sand the area. Get out your dry mud. Start with a six inch drywall knife blade and apply a thin coat of mud. Let dry several hours. Lightly sand. Take a eight inch knife and apply another thin coat of my. Let dry again. Take a twelve inch knife and apply another thin coat of mud and let dry and cure. Lightly sand between coats of mud. On the last coat when sanding lightly sand until all ridges disappear then repaint. This technique is called feathering out. Normally you would only apply the intital coat of drywall mud with a narrow blad followed by a second layer of mud with a wider blade. Since you have already painted over the surface you have a little extra work to do. As the very last step you can take a moist, not wet, sponge and clean up the edges if the sanding doesn't do it. Good luck!
Bummer. I would think that is what you have to do. I don't think the paint type makes much of a difference. If I were you, I'd call a sherwin-williams and ask their opinion. They are really knowledgable about how the paint makes a difference, etc. Good Luck.
Glossy paint will show more defects than flat. That is why most builders use dead flat paint on ceilings and walls. Primer is always flat not glossy so that is probably why you didn't notice the defects. Lighting makes a difference also. If you have sunlight coming from a different angle you may notice things that were not apparent under artificial light.
Yes you can go over it and sand again.
A lot of good, applicable advice in the above posts. the one thing lacking is how to check for this before painting.
get a very bright light, many use a used, 4', flourscent fixture and stand it one one end, leaning against the wall u r working one. as it shines across the surface of the wall, it will show low areas and u can mark them w/ a light pencil mark round them. Do not leave the light there while working or it may fall and break the bulbs (best done w/o the bulb cover, for the quality of light u need.
Many use halogen work lights that are on a stand or even a very powerful flashlight, though most of them will shine too much light in small area and not enough in others and it needs to be on a stand.
In other words, any stable, wide spread, very bright light will work.
I never call it a finished job, without this step.
It sounds like u've got the rest of it down pat. The paint does make a difference and the glossier the more it will show shallow areas. However, u want a bit of a gloss to make it more cleanable than flat. An eggshell finish is a great compromise. Gives a flat covering ability and yet is cleanable.
Sounds like an impressive do it yourself project, congrats and good luck
Paint will make a Little difference but not too much. You can fix the seams by using a wider drywall knife (trowel) and feathering it out. After you apply more compound make sure you sand it well before you paint.
Another way to get the seams to look better is to use some kind of texture after you complete your joints. Texture hides a world of hurt.
My codo is1275 sqft, all th drywall gets a primer and two finish coats of paint. the shoe mole along the floor
the woodwork gets two coats of paint. everything gets caulked from top to bottom. how much money will it cost me to get it painted including all materials and help??My codo is1275 sqft, all th drywall gets a primer and two finish coats of paint. the shoe mole along the floor
your handle is businesspainter why are you asking us?
your handle is businesspainter why are you asking us?
Can I install glass tile kitchen back splash over painted drywall?
actually adding more paint to the area under the tile is pointless. All glass needs to be adhered with thinset, not glue or mastic. They will not stay white, they tend to brown, and they won't last long. The thinset should be white, because it will drastically change the color of the tiles if you use grey. The thinset is what you will be seeing through transparent or translucent tile, the paint under the thinset will not show through the thinset.
Read the instructions from the glass manufacturer, they usually recommend a modified white thinset, this can be purchased at Home Depot, $15 for a 50lb bag. If you want a great looking install, Mapei makes a thinset they call Adesilex which is the only pure white thinset, and it makes for a really great looking install. It also has less sand in the mix, so it's smoother to work with and looks better. No texture visable through the glass.
Good luck!Can I install glass tile kitchen back splash over painted drywall?
everyone here is correct, you most certainly can install tile on drywall that has been painted, as long as the paint finish is clean, dry and free of grease, dust and peeling paint.
However, you are asking about GLASS TIlES. Some glass tiles are somewhat transparent. So, if your wall is painted a color that may possibly change the appearance of the glass tiles, I would give it a quick coat of paint to match the glass tiles so you will not have any unpleasant surprises once the tile is installed. Maybe even a white primer undercoat of paint will bring out the true colors in the glass tile. Also, please be certain the tile adhesive color is not going to show through to the glass tiles.Can I install glass tile kitchen back splash over painted drywall?
White latex modified thin set / with the thin set properly combed out and the glass';beat'; or properly set into the mortar will bet fine. Mastics and organic glues are not to be used in setting glass tiles.Any questions you can e mail me thru my avatar and check my qualifications there.. GL
I agree with jakeb, and would like to add that the adhesives available today will allow you to stick almost any thing to anything else. some times the hard part is determining which product is best.
You mean like ceramic or porcelain tile? Yes it can be glued onto painted drywall but rough it up with coarse sandpaper a bit so glue will stick better.
Yes. Shouldn't be a problem.hardware
Read the instructions from the glass manufacturer, they usually recommend a modified white thinset, this can be purchased at Home Depot, $15 for a 50lb bag. If you want a great looking install, Mapei makes a thinset they call Adesilex which is the only pure white thinset, and it makes for a really great looking install. It also has less sand in the mix, so it's smoother to work with and looks better. No texture visable through the glass.
Good luck!Can I install glass tile kitchen back splash over painted drywall?
everyone here is correct, you most certainly can install tile on drywall that has been painted, as long as the paint finish is clean, dry and free of grease, dust and peeling paint.
However, you are asking about GLASS TIlES. Some glass tiles are somewhat transparent. So, if your wall is painted a color that may possibly change the appearance of the glass tiles, I would give it a quick coat of paint to match the glass tiles so you will not have any unpleasant surprises once the tile is installed. Maybe even a white primer undercoat of paint will bring out the true colors in the glass tile. Also, please be certain the tile adhesive color is not going to show through to the glass tiles.Can I install glass tile kitchen back splash over painted drywall?
White latex modified thin set / with the thin set properly combed out and the glass';beat'; or properly set into the mortar will bet fine. Mastics and organic glues are not to be used in setting glass tiles.Any questions you can e mail me thru my avatar and check my qualifications there.. GL
I agree with jakeb, and would like to add that the adhesives available today will allow you to stick almost any thing to anything else. some times the hard part is determining which product is best.
You mean like ceramic or porcelain tile? Yes it can be glued onto painted drywall but rough it up with coarse sandpaper a bit so glue will stick better.
Yes. Shouldn't be a problem.
Fixing a drywall ceiling after it is primed/painted?
After painting, we noticed our drywall ceiling looks bad. You can see where the joint has been plastered because there is a bulge there. My boyfriend installed the ceiling himself and put the cut edge facing the middle of the ceiling instead of the angled edge. Does anyone have any good ideas on how to fix it?Fixing a drywall ceiling after it is primed/painted?
the only way to fix that is to feather out the drywall plaster. You will have to layer it or feather it outwards until you get a smooth finish. Probably take quite a few applications and sanding in between each one.Fixing a drywall ceiling after it is primed/painted?
There's no problem with applying joint compound over dried paint. I've done it many times. It sounds like the joints are visible, so this time use a wider trowel so you can feather out the joints farther.
The only way to really eliminate the seam is too feather it out with plaster until the seam appears to go away. In your case (because the cut is at the seam) You're really just making the bump spread out over a greater distance so your eye doesn't see it. You will want to use a finsih plaster and spread it the seam a minimum of 14'; but most likely you'll need to go to 21';. Buy a good flat drywall knife with a 14'; blade to do it properly and reduce the amount of sanding.
This sounds crappy but it works... I used to do drywall with my dad and we fixed tons of problems like this...
You need a knife, cut along where the bump is... (think of it as cutting out the bump) then sand the area some to even out the edges... dust out the area. Then use more drywall mud and fill in the hole... if it won't stay in try covering it with pieces of drywall tape... let it dry really really good... then sand the area smooth and cover with the same paint you used on the rest of the ceiling.
It may end up with a hairline crack after some years, the only way to avoid that is to redo the whole ceiling without the mess up. Because that mess up is still under the drywall mud... if it shifts over the years you may have to refix again.
If you have any questions... you can email me.
try using a flat paint . the more gloss a paint has the more imperfections will show
Apply a texture to your ceiling. The easiest would be ';popcorn'; this may help hide the defects.
Otherwise, you'll have to try to sand down the joint and maybe float a little more plaster out from the joint to make the transition from the joint to the drywall more gradual.
It is possible to camouflage the area by applying a ';Textured'; finish to the ceiling. That is why ';Textured ceilings were developed. It is very difficult even for ';Professional'; Tapers to completely hide the seams on a drywall ceiling. Without texturing all imperfections are visible.
the only way to fix that is to feather out the drywall plaster. You will have to layer it or feather it outwards until you get a smooth finish. Probably take quite a few applications and sanding in between each one.Fixing a drywall ceiling after it is primed/painted?
There's no problem with applying joint compound over dried paint. I've done it many times. It sounds like the joints are visible, so this time use a wider trowel so you can feather out the joints farther.
The only way to really eliminate the seam is too feather it out with plaster until the seam appears to go away. In your case (because the cut is at the seam) You're really just making the bump spread out over a greater distance so your eye doesn't see it. You will want to use a finsih plaster and spread it the seam a minimum of 14'; but most likely you'll need to go to 21';. Buy a good flat drywall knife with a 14'; blade to do it properly and reduce the amount of sanding.
This sounds crappy but it works... I used to do drywall with my dad and we fixed tons of problems like this...
You need a knife, cut along where the bump is... (think of it as cutting out the bump) then sand the area some to even out the edges... dust out the area. Then use more drywall mud and fill in the hole... if it won't stay in try covering it with pieces of drywall tape... let it dry really really good... then sand the area smooth and cover with the same paint you used on the rest of the ceiling.
It may end up with a hairline crack after some years, the only way to avoid that is to redo the whole ceiling without the mess up. Because that mess up is still under the drywall mud... if it shifts over the years you may have to refix again.
If you have any questions... you can email me.
try using a flat paint . the more gloss a paint has the more imperfections will show
Apply a texture to your ceiling. The easiest would be ';popcorn'; this may help hide the defects.
Otherwise, you'll have to try to sand down the joint and maybe float a little more plaster out from the joint to make the transition from the joint to the drywall more gradual.
It is possible to camouflage the area by applying a ';Textured'; finish to the ceiling. That is why ';Textured ceilings were developed. It is very difficult even for ';Professional'; Tapers to completely hide the seams on a drywall ceiling. Without texturing all imperfections are visible.
Will drywall stains bleed through paint too?
I just moved into an old house and after stripping through layers of wallpaper I'm plastering over the drywall. I noticed as the spackle dried that it was absorbing some sort of pigment from the drywall and now has these wavy light brown stains. If I paint directly onto this spackle are the stains going to bleed through the paint too? I don't want to waste a ton of time and paint if I don't have to, and the guy at the hardware store said I wouldn't need primer, is this correct? The paint I intend to us is a latex satin-finish interior paint if that helps.Will drywall stains bleed through paint too?
I would go ahead and get a primer. You never can tell if the stains will bleed through into the paint. If you get a primer it will block off and seal that stain so that it can't. Even if you didn't need it for the stain you will get better coverage and adhesion when you paint over the primer.Will drywall stains bleed through paint too?
I would use primer - they have some that are made specifically to block stains.
I have had stains (in my case, magic marker from my daughter) bleed through the paint. Better to use the primer, and not take a chance on having to paint twice.
buy some spray shellac put two light coats on the stains prime or not than paint
You might need to use primer. I just went through the same thing
you need to buy this stuff called Kilz. it will cover anything. it's like a primer.
I would go ahead and get a primer. You never can tell if the stains will bleed through into the paint. If you get a primer it will block off and seal that stain so that it can't. Even if you didn't need it for the stain you will get better coverage and adhesion when you paint over the primer.Will drywall stains bleed through paint too?
I would use primer - they have some that are made specifically to block stains.
I have had stains (in my case, magic marker from my daughter) bleed through the paint. Better to use the primer, and not take a chance on having to paint twice.
buy some spray shellac put two light coats on the stains prime or not than paint
You might need to use primer. I just went through the same thing
you need to buy this stuff called Kilz. it will cover anything. it's like a primer.
After making repairs in drywall, how can I get the same painted texture as the rest of the wall?
I have repaired several nail pops, etc. on my walls. After the repair is done, that part of the wall is smooth, and the rest of the wall has a texture created by painting (paint roller leaves a slight texture). The smooth spots stand out because the texture is different. Any advice?After making repairs in drywall, how can I get the same painted texture as the rest of the wall?
If you are talking about the slight ';orange rind'; type texture from the roller nap (and not a popcorn type texture) I'd suggest the following:
Prime the joint compound (2 coats) using roller, followed by at least 2 coats of top-coat paint.
Would suggest using a longer-nap roller -- they will do a better job of leaving a slight texture like you are trying to recreate.
Hope this helps. There is no ';1 coat'; solution to get the texture you are trying to get, but a longer nap roller will help.After making repairs in drywall, how can I get the same painted texture as the rest of the wall?
...mmm.. a close up picture of your wall-texture would help a lot.. there's literally hundreds of different textures out there.. all consisting of many different ingredients and mixtures.
most commercial textures are done with a spray machine of some sort, most hand textures are exactly what they sound like, and most custom textures are just an application of imagination and labor..
I'd experiment on a piece of scrap dry-wall.. get close as i could.. and call it good, [ that works if the texture is common in your neighborhood.
Ha Ha Ha This is where the skill comes in!
Sorry, but this is the art form itself, and the rest is easy by comparison. That's because you have to match your ideas to what somebody else did. I can't see your wall, of course, but usually a coat of texture is applied to the walls before they're painted. What this texture is made of, and how it's applied, varies greatly.
I usually take some drywall mud, dilute it down with water until it's pretty sloppy, and fling it on with a stiff wisk broom, which I dip into the mud, pull back on the bristles, and let fly. BUT, others have equally good and valid methods as well. You can even buy spray on texture in a spray can. That doesn't mean it's going to match, of course.
Practice your texture work outside on a scrap piece first. If you don't like what you did, wipe it off with a wet sponge. Remember, it all shrinks up when it dries. Feather outside your patched areas a little bit to blend it in.
Here's another website for more suggestions on texture and drywall. Best of luck!
http://www.drywallschool.com/
paint it the same way you painted the other walls with the roller.
If you are talking about the slight ';orange rind'; type texture from the roller nap (and not a popcorn type texture) I'd suggest the following:
Prime the joint compound (2 coats) using roller, followed by at least 2 coats of top-coat paint.
Would suggest using a longer-nap roller -- they will do a better job of leaving a slight texture like you are trying to recreate.
Hope this helps. There is no ';1 coat'; solution to get the texture you are trying to get, but a longer nap roller will help.After making repairs in drywall, how can I get the same painted texture as the rest of the wall?
...mmm.. a close up picture of your wall-texture would help a lot.. there's literally hundreds of different textures out there.. all consisting of many different ingredients and mixtures.
most commercial textures are done with a spray machine of some sort, most hand textures are exactly what they sound like, and most custom textures are just an application of imagination and labor..
I'd experiment on a piece of scrap dry-wall.. get close as i could.. and call it good, [ that works if the texture is common in your neighborhood.
Ha Ha Ha This is where the skill comes in!
Sorry, but this is the art form itself, and the rest is easy by comparison. That's because you have to match your ideas to what somebody else did. I can't see your wall, of course, but usually a coat of texture is applied to the walls before they're painted. What this texture is made of, and how it's applied, varies greatly.
I usually take some drywall mud, dilute it down with water until it's pretty sloppy, and fling it on with a stiff wisk broom, which I dip into the mud, pull back on the bristles, and let fly. BUT, others have equally good and valid methods as well. You can even buy spray on texture in a spray can. That doesn't mean it's going to match, of course.
Practice your texture work outside on a scrap piece first. If you don't like what you did, wipe it off with a wet sponge. Remember, it all shrinks up when it dries. Feather outside your patched areas a little bit to blend it in.
Here's another website for more suggestions on texture and drywall. Best of luck!
http://www.drywallschool.com/
paint it the same way you painted the other walls with the roller.
Can anyone tell me how to remove peeling paint on textured drywall?
The drywall is solid and I know I do not have a water problem.. the issue is 6 coats of latex OVER an oil based paint. It is blistering in several spots and scraping is to no avail. It is adheared ';just well enough'; to not come off, but badly enough to make the wall look flat in spots. Any suggestions?Can anyone tell me how to remove peeling paint on textured drywall?
Sand the entire room so that it all looks flat and the same. Then if you want to re texture you can but you will have a fresh surface to start. LOTS of work but it worked for us!Can anyone tell me how to remove peeling paint on textured drywall?
You could possibly try paint remover or paint thinner . You will need to have all windows open or a respirator mask on because of the fumes. Get a paint brush and dip it in the thinner and put on walls. Please protect your floor b/c this stuff will eat fabric and cause it to discolor. Once on walls let sit for about 10 min and then start scraping.
wire brush it, prime the whole room, then patch any necessary areas, prime that, then repaint the whole thing because you can't put LATEX over OIL paint without priming
Smooth the walls down. Put primer on. Repaint the color you want., may take a couple of coats. Latex is the best.
Sand it down, then re-texture.
Sand the entire room so that it all looks flat and the same. Then if you want to re texture you can but you will have a fresh surface to start. LOTS of work but it worked for us!Can anyone tell me how to remove peeling paint on textured drywall?
You could possibly try paint remover or paint thinner . You will need to have all windows open or a respirator mask on because of the fumes. Get a paint brush and dip it in the thinner and put on walls. Please protect your floor b/c this stuff will eat fabric and cause it to discolor. Once on walls let sit for about 10 min and then start scraping.
wire brush it, prime the whole room, then patch any necessary areas, prime that, then repaint the whole thing because you can't put LATEX over OIL paint without priming
Smooth the walls down. Put primer on. Repaint the color you want., may take a couple of coats. Latex is the best.
Sand it down, then re-texture.
Panel vs Paint + drywall?
Which one is more desirable? More durable? How much does it cost to use panels instead of paint?
Are panels installed on top of dry wall? Or in place of dry walls?Panel vs Paint + drywall?
If you are talking about laminated sheet paneling, then I would rather use drywall. The reasons being: drywall would be more durable, more easily repaired, would be able to hang pictures, shelving etc., would be better from a resale value and could be changed in appearance to your tastes. Wood paneling, such as tongue and groove is a different story. Sheet paneling would have only one advantage that I could see in that it can be hung over studs and require much less effort to finish than drywall or wood paneling.Panel vs Paint + drywall?
Both sheets of drywall, and Panel come in 8x4 sheets, and both are installed on top of 2x4 framed studs. Panels would be easier to install, since it doesn't require spackling, and sanding. But if you would ask me, I would strongly suggest going with drywall. Nobody really uses Panel too much anymore, expect in basements. And to answer your question Drywall is more durable, because Panel board warps very easy through out the years
Are panels installed on top of dry wall? Or in place of dry walls?Panel vs Paint + drywall?
If you are talking about laminated sheet paneling, then I would rather use drywall. The reasons being: drywall would be more durable, more easily repaired, would be able to hang pictures, shelving etc., would be better from a resale value and could be changed in appearance to your tastes. Wood paneling, such as tongue and groove is a different story. Sheet paneling would have only one advantage that I could see in that it can be hung over studs and require much less effort to finish than drywall or wood paneling.Panel vs Paint + drywall?
Both sheets of drywall, and Panel come in 8x4 sheets, and both are installed on top of 2x4 framed studs. Panels would be easier to install, since it doesn't require spackling, and sanding. But if you would ask me, I would strongly suggest going with drywall. Nobody really uses Panel too much anymore, expect in basements. And to answer your question Drywall is more durable, because Panel board warps very easy through out the years
Can you paint drywall?
Yes.Can you paint drywall?
yeah after you texture it and prime it with a sealer then you can paint it...Can you paint drywall?
sure
I'm pretty sure your supposed to....
Yes, that's what most walls in our homes are made out of. My dad has been a drywall contractor for 35 years.
Yes. Use a good quality sealer first, two coats. That way your color will lay the way that you want it to.
yes you need to texture it first though
Use a good primer first or the paint will soak right in.
i think it is best to paint the wall when it is dry, a lot easier. so yes.
You need a good primer first and make sure you have filled in all the cracks. After you have primed it, choose any color you want!
yes you can paint dry wall. if the inside of your house is painted,your walls are all drywalls
Yes you can but should use a latex primer first otherwise you might have probs with the paint adhering to the surface. Primers seal the surface to equalize paint absorption.
yeah after you texture it and prime it with a sealer then you can paint it...Can you paint drywall?
sure
I'm pretty sure your supposed to....
Yes, that's what most walls in our homes are made out of. My dad has been a drywall contractor for 35 years.
Yes. Use a good quality sealer first, two coats. That way your color will lay the way that you want it to.
yes you need to texture it first though
Use a good primer first or the paint will soak right in.
i think it is best to paint the wall when it is dry, a lot easier. so yes.
You need a good primer first and make sure you have filled in all the cracks. After you have primed it, choose any color you want!
yes you can paint dry wall. if the inside of your house is painted,your walls are all drywalls
Yes you can but should use a latex primer first otherwise you might have probs with the paint adhering to the surface. Primers seal the surface to equalize paint absorption.
Tuesday, February 23, 2010
Can you put drywall compound on top of a painted wall?
the wall has alkyd primer + acrylic latex paintCan you put drywall compound on top of a painted wall?
when they build houses they stray an acryllic primer and then the drywall finishers point up the house... fix all the nick and scratches in the wall.. once the house is painted and the new owners do the first walk through.. durring this time they will mark the walls some how so that the contractor knows what to fix.. then the point up guys come back.. they spread the drywall mud on the paint then sand then paint ..
the only place that i have ever seem it fail is on an outside corner where there is a large amount of drywall mud for a repair.. if it is bumped it can chip.
if it is a really slick paint you can use a sanding sponge on the area first to create a texture for the drywall mud to grab on to. the only problem that i have ever had with repairs is a lot of the time at the right angle you will see a differance in texture where you put the mud from another part of the wall.
you can also use ';ez- sand'; try have it from 20 to 120. thats approx mins to it starts to set up. use the highest if your not use to it... add a little to your mud to give it a faster dry time, and also more time to work with it then just straight ez-sand.Can you put drywall compound on top of a painted wall?
For a large hole or spot of damage a better idea is just to cut new drywall or it. But if its a small wound then drywall compound is fine. You just have to make sure you sand it down to be even with the rest of the wall and the right color paint to do the touch up. I would suggest doing at least a minimum of 2sq ft. of painting around the area as well if you can't afford to paint the entire wall. Even if you buy the exact same paint color and style it doesn't have the age and wear and tear as the other paint around it and it will stand out like a sore thumb.
Sand the area. Fill it. Sand it. Paint it. You'll be ok.
Good Luck.
Yes, in small area's. Be sure to sand the area once the 'mudd' has dried, or you will get a rough look- with high gloss paints, you may have to sand the area to get the texture to stick.
You can, but it won't adhere properly, so it's not recommended.
when they build houses they stray an acryllic primer and then the drywall finishers point up the house... fix all the nick and scratches in the wall.. once the house is painted and the new owners do the first walk through.. durring this time they will mark the walls some how so that the contractor knows what to fix.. then the point up guys come back.. they spread the drywall mud on the paint then sand then paint ..
the only place that i have ever seem it fail is on an outside corner where there is a large amount of drywall mud for a repair.. if it is bumped it can chip.
if it is a really slick paint you can use a sanding sponge on the area first to create a texture for the drywall mud to grab on to. the only problem that i have ever had with repairs is a lot of the time at the right angle you will see a differance in texture where you put the mud from another part of the wall.
you can also use ';ez- sand'; try have it from 20 to 120. thats approx mins to it starts to set up. use the highest if your not use to it... add a little to your mud to give it a faster dry time, and also more time to work with it then just straight ez-sand.Can you put drywall compound on top of a painted wall?
For a large hole or spot of damage a better idea is just to cut new drywall or it. But if its a small wound then drywall compound is fine. You just have to make sure you sand it down to be even with the rest of the wall and the right color paint to do the touch up. I would suggest doing at least a minimum of 2sq ft. of painting around the area as well if you can't afford to paint the entire wall. Even if you buy the exact same paint color and style it doesn't have the age and wear and tear as the other paint around it and it will stand out like a sore thumb.
Sand the area. Fill it. Sand it. Paint it. You'll be ok.
Good Luck.
Yes, in small area's. Be sure to sand the area once the 'mudd' has dried, or you will get a rough look- with high gloss paints, you may have to sand the area to get the texture to stick.
You can, but it won't adhere properly, so it's not recommended.
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